Naughty Dog Intimidator Rebuild thread

[Trbo323]

Oh, I am ready for disappointment. Probably wait a few days before airing it up. These definitely are not my favourite markers to work on, but need to challenge oneself every now and then.

Hazzah! Another convert away from the evils that is the Bob long intimidator design.

To be fair, I think Bob had some decent ideas for the time but cut corners on stuff like chamfering and wires/air line routing.

2 things to try, first, 0 out the LPR. If the leak stops it could be a few different things but we can get into that if it does.

Second. If you have a reg tester I would put it on the HPR. I had a case where I didn't realize the HPR was just feeding straight tank pressure through and it was pushing the valve o ring out of position.

If you are still clipping the o rings the best thing I can suggest is to pull the valve out and put a drill bit or large Allen up through the hole in the bottom of the body. Put the shaft end up through the hole not the cutting end if using a drill bit. Then get a piece of brillo pad and put on the end of the drill bit and push up so it's in contact with the transfer hole to the top tube. Run it around there for a bit to try and take the sharp corners off.

For the bottom hole, use a round needle file through the threaded portion on the bottom of the body

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[Cdn_Cuda]

I did know what I was getting into with this marker at least! I'm getting closer to sending it to the local tech who loves these things. I was just proud to have gotten the valve pin o-ring on.

I've tested the HPR and set it at 350. I can zero out the LPR but when screwing it in it made the leak worse.

I was wondering about the using a file on the body and whether it would be worth the effort, or just damage it.

[Trbo323]

I've tested the HPR and set it at 350. I can zero out the LPR but when screwing it in it made the leak worse.
.

It's not the valve body o rings then. Or, not only them then if you might have more than one leak

Pull the bolt pin up and push the bolt forward, see if the leak then comes through the bolt to come out the breach. If it does I would look at that valve stem o ring that I've that was so much fun to get on. If it's the wrong size or damaged the LPR ram air is bypassing it to come up through the valve

If when the bolt is forward the leak does not come out it's face I would look at all the rings on the ram and specifically the tip o ring. What can happen is one of them fails and the air comes up to the bolt, it's not traveling through the valve but through the bolt pin slot and can be easy to mistake for coming from elsewhere.

But if the leak changes when you increase the LPR pressure it has to be something with the solenoid, ram or internal lines as the valve is only getting hpr pressure not LPR so it wouldn't change when you adjust the lpr

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[Cdn_Cuda]

With bolt forward it leaks loudly down the barrel. Pull the bolt back and leaks less loudly. Assuming this means the valve pin o-ring…. As the leak is reduced then the bolt is “closed” over the air outlet

And I thought I had progress, but turns out my tank was empty but still shows 2k on the gauge….

Switched tanks and adjusted LPR over 100 psi and no real change.

[Trbo323]

With bolt forward it leaks loudly down the barrel. Pull the bolt back and leaks less loudly. Assuming this means the valve pin o-ring…. As the leak is reduced then the bolt is “closed” over the air outlet

And I thought I had progress, but turns out my tank was empty but still shows 2k on the gauge….

Switched tanks and adjusted LPR over 100 psi and no real change.

That's what I would go after at least.

And honestly, eyeball it. Bob was known to have changed design aspects halfway through a year. So if a manual says it's a 006 o ring I always take that with a grain of salt. If I put a 006 on there and it looks like it's not sticking out enough to seal in a tube that surrounds it then I try a 007 , I don't care what the manual says.

Are you using dow55?

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[Yo soy el Warg]

My -guess- is that the u-cup is on backward. The cup portion needs to point toward the front of the marker. It will leak down the barrel strongly if it's on backward. Did you take a picture of it before re-inserting it into the marker?

Also, if the ram sleeve set screw is too tight, it can push the sleeve up too far and prevent the seal from functioning. That being said... too loose, and the sleeve jams backward from the pressure (or repeated vibration from firing) and it ruins the sleeve. It's a delicate balance.

[Cdn_Cuda]

I did not use the u-ring when I reassembled this time. I will put it back in and see if that helps. Was going to order a new one from you and an adjustable ram cap.

I read about the valve set screw issue and tried to make sure it was firm but not too tight.

[Yo soy el Warg]

I'm curious to hear what happens! I've found the u-cup to make the sleeve much easier to install, and if it's facing the right way I've never had a leak with them.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Progress?! Still seems to leak, but it did get it to shoot when I pulled the trigger.

And then noticed the valve spring sitting beside the marker. Oops! Small steps, but seem to be inching forward to making this functional. Currently the board hates most my batteries, so going to have to check the connection.

[Trbo323]

Progress?! Still seems to leak, but it did get it to shoot when I pulled the trigger.

And then noticed the valve spring sitting beside the marker. Oops! Small steps, but seem to be inching forward to making this functional. Currently the board hates most my batteries, so going to have to check the connection.

Ha! Pretty sure we have all done that one at some point. Sucks but part of being an airsmith

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[Cdn_Cuda]

Is still leaking, but I pulled the ram and noticed the o-ring on the tip had split. So replaced all the o-rings on the ram, greased it to an unhealthy level and reinstalled. It does cycle if I move the bolt manually. The bolt goes back when aired up. Might try and throw a hopper on it and shoot what I can, even if it still leaks.

Regardless, I am pleased with the process for the moment, even if it is slow progression.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Felt like rolling the dice on the Timmy today and air it up and slapped a Rotor on it. No leaks on air up, a first! And it actually shoots! Now it only shoots one shot on like 10 trigger pulls, but likely have to properly adjust the LPR. Feels good to have gotten this working. Thanks to everyone for the help/advice. Hope to put a shooting video up once I get it fully operational.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Time for a long overdue update on this. Local guru said had the reg seal go bad and take out the solenoid. So new solenoid and various parts order from Research Paintball. Need to order in some barbs now and taking a good hard look at a FloryPB board as hate to get this far and have the old board die.

experience with the Flory boards?