Sheridan build along

**netsurferdude2** · 04-24-2022, 06:20 PM

Originally posted by AnarchicArctic

so I have a few options here.
• lose the Venturi and replace it with a pusher screw
• cock the bolt and muzzle load
• machine the bolt for a lug sled like the old general joes centerfire bolts
• cock the bolt, slightly push forward, then twist and pull to partially disengage enough to use the existing feedport.

Option 4 is the way to go. I did that for my pirate dueling pistols. Use the quickstrip slot to bring the bolt back enough to load or load from the back of the barrel with the bolt out.

Also...
When I used to have that single shot with the General Joe's bolt it in, I made a CAD model to hopefully recreate it one day. Now that my lathe is up and running I might be able to do it.

**AnarchicArctic** · 04-25-2022, 12:20 PM

Some progress today. Spent time in the sun and managed to remove the old solder.

then I hit it with wet 600 grit for awhile, all in one direction, to start working towards a polish

**AnarchicArctic** · 04-25-2022, 01:28 PM

Still have some work to do but I couldn’t resist…threw her together and cracked a half dozen 12ies. Shooting great.

**AnarchicArctic** · 04-26-2022, 08:27 AM

Well after 100 shots or so the bolt tip let go, and left a tiny ring of a gouge in my barrel as it went.

it was really shooting great, and I suppose I could’ve tig welded it, but decided to scrap it as a failed hypothesis on account of that little gouge. I filled the bolt face with epoxy and glued on an anti-skid dot pusher after it cured. Now I can cock as normal and still clear the transfer port.

**AnarchicArctic** · 04-26-2022, 08:48 AM

For an anti-rollout solution I’ve decided to go old school for now and use nail polish. If you’ve never done this it’s relatively easy, albeit tediously so.

I like to take the end off a qtip, bend it over 90 degrees and tape it to a paintbrush. Then I set the bolt flush against the back of the tube, add a paintball, and measure just front of center mass with my qtip applicator, marking the rear of the tube on the paintbrush with a sharpie.

now your tool kit for this is the bent qtip applicator, another qtip taped to a paintbrush soaked in nail polish remover, and a third dry qtip.

find your wife or daughter’s (or yours, no judgement) thickest, longest lasting polish. I use a goth black because it means business. My daughter painted my toes with it once and it hung on for months. Put just a little dab on the applicator qtip. Think meniscus.

now slide that thing into the rear of the bore up to your line, being careful not to touch the tip. When you reach the line, lever the paintbrush just enough to tap the bore applying that little dollop of polish. If you mess up, hit too hard, don’t like your placement, etc. hit it with your oops stick, and then dry any remaining remover with that third qtip. Overall the number and placement of dots is up to you. I tend to put one up top, and today decided a triangular pattern would do nicely.

I typically apply before bed and let them cure overnight. Test the hold with a few balls in the morning, and add a second application to each dot if necessary. With the right polish, they will last you several games to a season.

**AnarchicArctic** · 04-26-2022, 11:10 AM

Dots are dry and holding this .683ish graffiti just fine. Even so, I’ll probably add another dab just for good measure.

**jeramiej** · 04-26-2022, 12:32 PM

Amazing walk-through. Nice work.

**MoJo** · 04-27-2022, 11:40 AM

Loving following along! Learning a bunch

**AnarchicArctic** · 05-02-2022, 02:30 PM

Got some 1/8”x1”x6” brass bar in the mail today. Decided to whip up a single action army style front sight. First I drew the design to spec on the bar with a sharpie. I went with the 1911-1912 and later .62 x.35 variant.

next step is forgetting to take pictures. Then clamping and cutting it out with a dremel. Then I put it in a spring clamp and sand to shape on my belt sander. After you have it shaped, wrap some sandpaper around your barrel and drag the bottom of the sight along it in one direction to add an ever so subtle curve to the bottom of the sight. Using the meaty finger trick I scribe a center line on the barrel with a sharpie, leaving a gap where the sight is gonna live.

mount the sight upside down in a vise, paint some flux on just the bottom, which is currently the top. Anywhere the flux goes is where solder will stick, so try to be precise. Get your solder ready and light your torch. I use silver solder, no lead here because I’m special enough. Heat the unfluxed side with the torch while touching the flux with solder. When it heats enough the solder will melt and stick to the flux.

next I wrap the pgp’s tail end with an old wool sock and gently clamp in a vise. Just enough to hold it in place. Put that soldered sight in your old spring clamp with the solder end hanging out and visible. Dab a line of flux on the barrel where it’s going to mount. Now spark that torch. Hold the clamp to line up the sight on the barrel, while torching the underside of the barrel. The heat will transfer, melting the pre-applied solder and sealing it to the barrel. Hold that sucker straight n steady while it cools.

A little sanding to remove the funk and we’ve got ourselves a more pointable shooter.

**AnarchicArctic** · 05-03-2022, 09:14 PM

Some more progress today. Mostly cosmetic with a tip of the cap to the marker’s roots. I took the old top tube and measured a length, centering the original “model pgp” factory stamp.

Fit a #13 socket into the tube and used my pipe cutter to nip it to length.

next I took a couple sheets of 320 grit wet sandpaper to go about removing what’s left of the warning stamp. This took a good bit of time and elbow grease, but I’ve found doing it by hand eliminates flats that can develop with power tools.

once I was satisfied with the degree of removal, I set the tube in a vise and used my dremel cut off wheel to remove the strip of solder from the bottom.

now that I have the foundations of a fancy tube sleeve, I file away the sharp bits from all of my cuts in preparation for application.

**AnarchicArctic** · 05-03-2022, 09:27 PM

now I measured the feed hole location and size and set those measurements aside for later.

Using a small but sturdy file, I gently pry the bottom of the sleeve open enough to start sliding it onto the rear of the barrel. I check the rotational alignment and use that same file to twist it either way it may need to travel. When I’m satisfied with placement I start to gently whack it towards the business end with a hardwood mallet, checking alignment as I proceed. With about an inch of travel left I dab some gorilla glue gel on the barrel just in front of the sleeve, as well as on the underside of the sleeve’s rear. Tapping it home drags this glue under the seams, and combined with the self clamping nature of the sleeve holds things in place well enough.

with the sleeve in place it’s time to recut the quick strip slot.

I like to do this as a little nod to the piece’s humble origins. The sleeve is also functional, as it covers the original feed hole should a side tube be in order. Additionally in my case, it adds a little bit of weight to the rear, aiding in balance for the gunslinger back spin.

Next up we’ve got to cut ourselves a feed hole.

**JeeperCreeper** · 05-04-2022, 09:12 AM

Nice. I can't wait for my brass shipment

**AnarchicArctic** · 05-04-2022, 03:48 PM

Tackled the feed hole today. Decided on a side cut so the top has plenty of real estate for a rear sight. I like to trace an actual feed hole on a post it note, cut out the hole, then align that on the barrel and trace it with a sharpie.

when it comes to cutting these feed holes you want to go straight in, but then remove material on an inward angle all the way around. This gives a little extra room to slide a round in. Best bet is to keep some ammo on hand and see if it fits as you go. I punch out the center with progressively larger drill bits, and then remove the rest with a tungsten carbide cutting bit and a small file.

success!

safety glasses, safely catching Velcor’s pixie dust.

**AnarchicArctic** · 05-06-2022, 06:29 PM

Had a little time to put towards the rear sight today. I decided to make something similar to the one that comes stock. I cut a scrap piece of feed tube a bit longer and wider than the planned finished dimensions. Then I used a worm gear clamp to hold it to a piece of scrap barrel with a little over hang.

Close that over hang in a vise and bend it 90 degrees. Your clamp should have kept the rest of your piece nice and curved. Now trim off any tears and roughly cut to size. I like a slightly larger sight window, so I cut my notch to the same width as my front sight. If you want the rear notch to match your front sight width exactly, you’ll have to wait to cut it until after it’s installed as the perspective changes with the distance between your front and rear sight.

Now that we’ve got the makings of a rear sight it’ll be time to add the finishing touches with a careful trip to the belt sander and some hobby files

**AnarchicArctic** · 05-06-2022, 07:51 PM

I’ll just leave this here.

Sheridan build along

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