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valve removal on a Sheridan SB with Rear ASA?

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    valve removal on a Sheridan SB with Rear ASA?

    Hello would like to fix a leaking sheridan SB with a rear ASA. I have most of the valve train removed and was curious how to remove the rest. currently have the nut,valve,cup seal,spring and for lack of a better term "brass button" for the other end of spring. I believe the valve body is still in there and when i look down the lower tube from under the barrel there looks to be a flat piece with an o ring that has crept out around the flat piece . As this is not a pierce style valve, how do remove the remaining pieces?
    If anyone has a picture of this valve assembly,it would be appreciated.

    #2
    Second post here has the pictures of the valve assembly: https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/p...screws-and-all
    Click image for larger version

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    Love my brass ... Love my SSR ... Hard choices ...

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      #3
      Hello Xemon, there is no face seal on this marker as it's a rear ASA, so lower tube is empty where you would normally put your 12 gram and there is no pierce pin.

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        #4
        It's the exact same, but the piece on the front (the firther right on the picture) is plugged/doesn't have a hole.
        also the valve seat is the same but without the "nose/needle" that pierce the 12g.
        Other than those 2 parts, everything is interchangeable from on the the other ...
        Love my brass ... Love my SSR ... Hard choices ...

        XEMON's phantom double sided feed
        Keep your ATS going: Project rATS 2.0
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          #5
          so removal would be the same, drift remaining components out the back. didn't want to go hog wild and smash anything important. Thanks.

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            #7
            Originally posted by Rolling Thunder 67 View Post
            so removal would be the same, drift remaining components out the back. didn't want to go hog wild and smash anything important. Thanks.
            yep, small wood dowl from the front is a great way to push things out without damage.
            Love my brass ... Love my SSR ... Hard choices ...

            XEMON's phantom double sided feed
            Keep your ATS going: Project rATS 2.0
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              #8
              I am assuming you have a valve removal tool...
              do not drift anything down the barrel end side as yours has a end cap soldered on..
              first remove the nut and then reverse the tool and screw it over the end of the valve firmly.
              wiggle back and forth a few times as you pull firmly out... should pop right out of there...
              valve pin and spring plus spring cap will want to fly so do this slowly...

              as jordon says you may have to pick the lead seal after removing nut in first step..

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                #9
                Originally posted by WALZ View Post
                I am assuming you have a valve removal tool...
                do not drift anything down the barrel end side as yours has a end cap soldered on..
                I didnt realized they used to solder it on there ... mine has the end cap hold in place with a pin so its can be removed safely
                Thanks for the info
                Love my brass ... Love my SSR ... Hard choices ...

                XEMON's phantom double sided feed
                Keep your ATS going: Project rATS 2.0
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                  #10
                  Thank you Walz, that was the answer i was looking for. Lead seal was absence, valve, pin,spring and spring cap came out without using tool.now to source a new cup seal.

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