So you want to build a Mechanical Ion?

[Sdawg]

If anyone wants some pushfit t-union fittings, DM me. I have four I’m never going to use. I put them in my own mech ion build.

[JCC]

If I had a Gog Trigger frame and valve could the who thing just be bolted on to an Ion? Thinking I could have to separate the Ion vASA from the frame, and create opening to run hose into gog frame, but any major road blocks? Not having all the parts in front of me leaves me guessing at things.

[Brokeass_baller]

If I had a Gog Trigger frame and valve could the who thing just be bolted on to an Ion? Thinking I could have to separate the Ion vASA from the frame, and create opening to run hose into gog frame, but any major road blocks? Not having all the parts in front of me leaves me guessing at things.

The VASA is completely different. If you want to mount it on an ion body, you'll have to Dremel the body out for it. Otherwise, yes, it's just plug and play. People body mod eNMEy's all the time, and Ions work well once modified for the VASA.

I have both a v1 and v2 eNMEy, and an Ion. So feel free to ask if you'd like any pictures or have more questions or anything.

[JCC]

Awesome. I was thinking since the vASA of the Ion has its own screw to hold it in place could just hack saw that part off the frame. Grinder and sand it to get a nice finish. Then just run hose from that back to the eNMEy frame. The eNMEy vASA is not part of the frame right? So just use the Ion one held by the screw from the top, and hose would run back to gog frame and valve. Trying to find a cheap 50 can eNMEy to use parts from.

[Brokeass_baller]

Correct, the eNMEy vasa isn't connected to the frame. The top is rounded and sits against the internal body. That's why most people just Dremel out that spot on the ion body.

Should be an easy mod your way too, though. Having the VASA off of the ion frame and mating it to the eNMEy frame.

[aolivier]

I have been trying to contact Stanchy to get an oring added to a stock bolt, but they are not responding to email and my Facebook messages don’t appear to go through. I ordered a part through the website and it arrived, but can’t seem to get someone to tell me the process for the bolt. Any ideas?

[JeeperCreeper]

You could look for an aftermarket bolt, like this one:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/325233866626?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=1QqjEC_ITSa&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=nudjnr6vros&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

[Myrkul]

Here is a good break down of aftermarket ION bolts so you know what you are looking for. Many of them have the dual "O" Ring.

http://www.zdspb.com/tech/mguide/ion/parts_body_firingassembly.html

[Yeti2008]

I have an SP1 and it came with the plastic barbed banjo fittings. The host that goes on those barbs is bigger than autococker hose. what fittings do I need to buy in order to make a mech kit work?

[Cdn_Cuda]

It’s the T-fitting you need, T33-2 (From Clippard), it fits the larger 4mm hose across the top and the smaller 1/8 line on the bottom.

[Yeti2008]

Ok, what about the line from the SMAV valve to the front banjo. The front banjo has a larger barb than the cocker hosing used on the valve. Do I need some sort of adapter or is there a different banjo fitting for the front I can get?

[jokers]

With the front valve it is possible to use a Eclipse QEV, Clippard QEV or the 360 QEV.
Clippard part number is MEV-2 but requires another part to adapt the #10-32 thread to 1/16 (autococker) hose. I used a 11752 that has thread to 1/16th barb. But you could use something else if you want.

[Yeti2008]

Thanks for the info and all the help

[Yeti2008]

Ok, I ordered all the parts, I put together what I have. I aired it up and the bolt goes forward when first gassed up and stays there even when I push the valve button. What am I doing wrong?

Hosing

https://photos.app.goo.gl/qkww1ogZKAS8SvhN7

SP1 Bolt

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JKyX7vR3byEjNBqh7

[JeeperCreeper]

There was just a thread about this, the front banjo hose is likely kinked. Use pen springs in the bends to prevent this

[Yeti2008]

It did this with the sp1 mechanical noid I had until it cracked. Do I have the hoses correct? Is the SP1 bolt ok to use? Does it need modified or anything?

[Yeti2008]

I checked all the hosing nothing is kinked. What makes the bolt go to the forward position and stay there on gas up?

[Brokeass_baller]

Does the bolt stay back when you pull and hold the trigger? You may have the hoses mixed up. And the SP1 bolt is fine as long as it has two tail o-rings.

[Yeti2008]

I tried activating the smav valve and the bolt stays forward. I tried switching the lines and the bolt won't move even when activating the smav valve. Not sure what is wrong, is there any trouble shooting threads for the ion/sp1 platform?

[evilfishsticks]

Received a thrashed ion in a $10 lot over the summer. I finally got around to fielding my mech ion, third time was the charm. First two times it worked at home the night before and then not at the field. Shortened up some hoses and it was perfect. I even added the second oring to the bolt this week. Worked great, thanks for this fantastic thread.

[Lift-off Oversteer]

Hi is their anybody on this forum I can send my parts to and assemble into Mech ion? I started gathering parts back when mech ion kit first came out on MCB and never completed it

[Jordan]

Looks like you're in BC? Maybe Cdn_Cuda can help you out with that.

[Cdn_Cuda]

I think the only thing I don’t have is the SMAV3 and a mount for it. I have lots of hosing and pretty sure I have a t-barb too.

[lhamilton1807]

Wanted to throw out another option for a SMAV mount that I found recently. It utilizes the slot for the electronics

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4943347

On another note, though - has anyone tried using a GMEK 3-way instead of a smav? I've got a mech Ion on the brain and have never used a smav so I don't know if it could easily be replaced by something slightly more modern, with a lighter pull, or shorter pull. I assume the two ports on top of the gmek 3-way could be tapped for barbs or ptc fittings.

[evilfishsticks]

I replaced chosanjuans mount i initially used with that smav 3 mount on my ion. I had to put a spacer behind the valve but that mount fits in there very nice. I printed out two more because I got 2 more ions in a lot that some buddies asked me to mech for them.

[Jordan]

Wanted to throw out another option for a SMAV mount that I found recently. It utilizes the slot for the electronics

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4943347

On another note, though - has anyone tried using a GMEK 3-way instead of a smav? I've got a mech Ion on the brain and have never used a smav so I don't know if it could easily be replaced by something slightly more modern, with a lighter pull, or shorter pull. I assume the two ports on top of the gmek 3-way could be tapped for barbs or ptc fittings.

Maybe, although a SMAV only moves 1/16" of an inch, I believe? It's all about the length of the lever used to actuate it, in this case the trigger.

[JeeperCreeper]

This. My Dye framed single trigger was almost comparable to my CVO, just wasn't as crisp of a pull. It's even better on my rifle build, which I used an airsoft trigger box and gained the leverage for one of the most amazing trigger pulls out there, and also a safety. The trigger box has a long arm inside of it that I just positioned the valve underneath. It's about 1.5mm of trigger pull, and it had a nice positive "click."

[tyronejk]

The SMAV-3 is easy to use as it has barb fittings for hoses. I don't think the Gmek valve has threaded holes to put barbs in, so you'd have to make a custom manifold.

Intimidator solenoids have threaded ports and a very short throw manual button on them, so I'm planning on using one I have lying around for an experimental build when I have the time to machine some parts.

[lhamilton1807]

Right, that’s why I suggested they’d need to be tapped. I like your idea of Timmy noid. Looking forward to the results.

[tyronejk]

Ah yeah, sorry missed that. Also, I didn't realize the two holes near the edge of the block were just mounting holes and the two ports you mentioned were the middle holes, so plenty of space for tapping threads. That does seem like a pretty good option.