So here we go.. I found pictures of before it was spray painted over on PBNation, but don't worry, we'll be seeing the same thing here soon.
Before we get started, let me post something for the overly-litigious: I take no responsibility for how badly you will fvck up your gun if you do this. These chemicals can be very dangerous, and you should not handle them, or look at them.
That said, lacquer thinner is very effective at removing spray paint, or any other type of enamel paint. It will not, however harm anodizing. Anodizing dye is protected by the oxide layer of the aluminum. It requires a heavily caustic highly alkaline solution to chemically strip anodizing.
That said, lacquer thinner will melt styrofoam and certain types of plastic. You certainly wouldn't want this to come in contact with delrin, or any jewel stickers or buttons. I held off on stripping the barrel and ASA since they have jewel decals, and I was not at my own home, and did not have access to my heat gun for safe removal of the jewels.
Even though there is overspray on the solenoid and manifold, I will not be attempting to strip them at this time. The pneumatics have proven to be leak free and perfectly operational.
Here's everything I'm going to be working on:
I laid down some newspaper, at first on a wooden table outside. This stuff will go to your head, so it needs to be done in a well ventilated area. I eventually moved to the concrete slab in case the thinner soaked through the newspaper, and then into the garage with the doors open and fan blowing since it started to drizzle.
Two swipes in, and it's already coming off. Unfortunately, I won't end up with a beautiful blue NXT frame, as it seems some joker took a wire brush or wire wheel to it. Amateur. I may bead blast it to even out the finish, but more on that later.
The frame is totally stripped in this shot. The silver is where the anno was taken off by some abrasive. I'll deal with that later, but for now, I'm just glad not to have sticky spray paint staining my hands and gloves.
Started work on the body. I did not remove the bolt, bolt guide, firing can, solenoid inserts, etc. because I wanted this process to be minimally invasive. I was not pouring the thinner over the parts, just dabbing a blue "Shop" paper towel soaked in thinner and using q-tips dipped in thinner for more precise areas. Contact with thinner would likely cause some o-rings to melt and others to swell.
Points of interest on the body:
I left some silver in the shocker logo.. I like the way it looks, and serves as a reminder of what was once covered by icky sticky spray paint drips
I know that it was painted twice. After a few swipes along the top of the gun, I found where someone scratched a d!ck into the top of the gun, in the first coat of spray paint. You can imagine how badly I hoped that it didn't go through to the anno. Thankfully, it didn't.
All parts stripped and ready to be reassembled. I left the broken eye out of it, but reinstalled the scew and eye cover w/ detent to prevent losing the small screw.
All back together, and after shooting some paint. The barrel will wait due to the aforementioned jewel stickers, as will the ASA. I also had one of my old Shoebox All-American barrels on hand, as well as an All-American stainless, but there wasn't as good match with the paint.
I also had to switch the tanks. My crossfire (with the DYE cover) only had around 600psi in it, and I wanted to be sure it was shooting just like before, so I put on my Pure Energy, which had around 1200psi.