There are a couple of important factors to bear in mind as you play with a 3357.
Not only will they not break from as far away, but they make a smaller mark as well. If you're ever faced with a choice of taking a shot or moving closer, choose the move.
I generally shot in traditional style when moving and duelist when stationary: Cowboy Action Shooting Tips & Techniques : Traditional vs. Duelist Style of Shooting Cowboy Pistols - YouTube
I fired it single action 99% of the time as the double action trigger pull was poop. After I got my aluminum cylinders I shot more DA but still couldn't touch the single action accuracy. Obviously I went DA anytime I had both out.
One of the weaknesses of the 3357 is indexing the next chamber. The cylinder gets sloppy or can be screwed up. When I got a new batch of cylinders(new to me anyway!) I would take a small marker and number each cylinder then number each chamber on that cylinder.
I'd get a bunch of paint and test fire each cylinder 6 or 7 times in fast and slow fire. I'd write down the locations of any breaks, to make sure there wasn't a consistent problem with something. Any bad chamber, I'd paint the inside of it orange. Any bad cylinder I'd try to fix or throw away.
A bad chamber in one cylinder will come up on you at random normally, it's possible to run around having breaks and trouble for a long time without realizing it was all one chamber.
I had a little needle oiler:
At the start of the day and at lunch I'd squirt a drop's worth into the pierce pin, then put in a 12ie. If they get TOO dry they get squirrely.
It's also possible to put a drop of oil on the tip of the first 12ie, then load it into the pistol gently and pierce it, this works ok too.
It helps T8 mags and TPX pistols to do this at the start of the day and at lunch too.
Not so much for this weekend but for future refernce, the mosin-nagant clip pouches make excellent cylinder pouches:
Ironically they attach to molle as well:
Hope that helps, you have some fun!!