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Old 07-14-2010, 07:35 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Exclamation Mag trouble shooting tips

Idk why I haven't done this before


Mags like oil, be sure to oil enough, and often, several drops in the asa before airing it up before each day of play should be sufficient, I use autolube or similar

Your fromt frame scew should be tight, but not super tight, and your thumbscrew that holds the valve in should only be finger tight, if u need an allen to remove it, its too tight( some after market or super ULE rails may be an exception to this rule)

Always be sure your rail has a rail bushing, this keeps everything lined up nicely

When aired up, the sear rod should not touch the back of the trigger, a very small gap is needed, but not too much, you can adjust the rod by turning it with a pair of pliers

Mags need HP air and 850psi and above is a requiremnt

Now, you oil your mag, you put your hp output tank on your gun, and when the marker airs up, its leaking...

Also if you get air coming out the back of the regulator it could be the reg seat. If replacing that doesnt fix your leak (may be accompanied by barrel farting) then your valve piston is probably bad.

Air whooshing down the barrel can also be caused by a bad sear. your sear should have a pointed edge where it catches the bolt. If the edge is rounded, then it is no good.

If you pull the trigger and it stops, its the powertube, if it continues, it can be the on/off

check the on/off for worn orings and replace even if they don't look worn also remember too short an on/off pin may cause problems and rapid fire, some people shave on/off pins for reactivity so be sure check on/off pin lengths for your particular set up

Heres some quick specs for the sear rod and on/off pin length

Emag/Xmag
On/Off pin: .712" w/ brass top and double o-ring top.
.725" w/ aluminum top and single o-ring top.

Trigger Rod: 2.125"

Solenoid Plunger Rod: 3.005"

RT-Pro:

On/Off Pin: .765"

Trigger Rod: 1.985"

Retro Valve/X-Valve/Classic RT:

On/Off Pin: .750"

Automag Classic/Minimag:

On/Off Pin: .750"

Trigger Rod: 1.985"


Lvl 7

Well the copper spring that originally came in the lvl 7 bolt kits sucked, get a spacer kit and insert the .220 spacer, be sure you have the proper o ring in the powertube and check your powertube tip oring for wear or nicks

The .220 spacer fixes most problems but you can fine tune with the additional spacers or if by chance that spacer doesn't work

Always make sure your spring isn't too worn and you don't have your velocity too high/ low, if its too high it may vent out of the back of the valve


lvl X

Remove the bolt and powertube tip, now take your thumbscrew and insert it into the powertube, its a fast way to pull your shims/spacer/oring out, set the shims( if any) aside, be sure there is a small washer at the bottom of the powertube

Now take your spacer kit, remove all the orings from inside all of them, take one oring, and this is the oring you will use for this tuning, and only this oring

Its important to use only one oring because of the variation between the orings will give you differing results making tuning a headache

Now take a spacer and insert the oring into it, place it into the powertube, with the oring facing the valve, and take your bolt, insert the bolt and lift the bolt and valve up, if the weight of the bolt slides the bolt off the spacer/oring, then its too small, you want the spacer/oring that will hold the valve to the bolt enough to where a slight wiggle makes the valve release from the bolt, if the valve sticks to the bolt and won't easily wiggle loose, its too tight

Using the same oring for every spacer find the proper spacer and install, now place 3 shims in after the spacer and replace the powertube tip, checking the oring from wear or damage

Air up and fire, if everything was done right you should have a properly tuned anti chop bolt

Now degas and remove one shim at a time, untill your marker leaks, then replace a shim, now you've set up your level X

Remember the spring you will want to use is the gold spring, the other 2 red and silver springs are for fine tunining

Heres a link to the lvl X pictorial and spacer sizes

X-mag User Guide Level 10

Visit Tunmart.com for all your AGD needs and email tunaman@comcast.net for certified AGD tech services ( because sometimes we would rather someone else fix it for us...)



If there's anything anybody wants to add, post up
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Last edited by rudz; 07-14-2010 at 02:28 PM.
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Old 07-14-2010, 07:48 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rudz View Post
If you pull the trigger and it stops, its the on/off assembly

its the powertube
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Old 07-14-2010, 07:52 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Ill fix it, I'm tired....
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Old 07-14-2010, 07:54 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks buddy
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Old 07-14-2010, 08:16 AM   #5 (permalink)
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You're welcome, good job.
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Old 07-14-2010, 08:22 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I was bored, I can't sleep...
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Old 07-14-2010, 01:43 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Mags need HP air and 850psi and above is a requiremnt
Level 7 (and earlier) automags were designed to solve the problems presented by CO2 as the power source with pressures dropping as low as 500psi.

Of course, high pressure air is a better power source for an automag.
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Old 07-14-2010, 01:48 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Also if you get air coming out the back of the regulator it could be the reg seat. If replacing that doesnt fix your leak (may be accompanied by barrel farting) then your valve piston is probably bad.

Air whooshing down the barrel can also be caused by a bad sear. your sear should have a pointed edge where it catches the bolt. If the edge is rounded, then it is no good.

Just thought I would give some input on some other mag problems that I have experienced since they aren't usually talked about much.
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Old 07-14-2010, 02:29 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by Timber_Ghost View Post
Also if you get air coming out the back of the regulator it could be the reg seat. If replacing that doesnt fix your leak (may be accompanied by barrel farting) then your valve piston is probably bad.

Air whooshing down the barrel can also be caused by a bad sear. your sear should have a pointed edge where it catches the bolt. If the edge is rounded, then it is no good.

Just thought I would give some input on some other mag problems that I have experienced since they aren't usually talked about much.

Thanks, edited
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Old 09-07-2010, 01:13 AM   #10 (permalink)
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i need to no how do u go rt i want to rip
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