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Old 01-22-2012, 03:34 PM   #1 (permalink)
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level 10 probelms (I know, one more thread)

well I have looked through all of the stickies and through as many manuals as i can find and I still cant seal up this leak. He is what I have done so far:

1. I have used all 3 springs and they all leak
2. I only have 2 shims but i have tried 2, 1, and no shims and it still leaks
3. I have tried 3 different power tube oring (1 old and 2 new) and they all leak.
4. I have tried a standard 850 psi, 540 psi, and the ninja SHP 950-1100 psi tank bonnets.
5. I have shot around 500 shots through each new oring
6. I have worked my way down from the 2 groove carries to the 1 dont carried (the smallest one i have)
7. I have adjusted the reg to get it to shoot but still leaks
8. And yes, I have oiled it

The leak does changes pitch if i push on the bolt

The leak does stop when I pull the trigger by the way

just recently it shoots 1 shot and then stop like there is a ball that a tuned up lvl n10 would stop on.

and help would be great

thanks
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Old 01-22-2012, 04:13 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Nevermind previous post, I read further down your list, half asleep today.

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Old 01-22-2012, 05:12 PM   #3 (permalink)
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"The leak does stop when I pull the trigger by the way"
That says your leak is in the powertube.

"just recently it shoots 1 shot and then stop like there is a ball that a tuned up lvl n10 would stop on. "
That sounds like boltstick(carrier too small)

So make sure o-rings 3 and 6 aren't leaking. Then you can work on o-ring 2 by getting the proper carrier size.
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Old 01-22-2012, 05:23 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Start with no shims, gold spring, 850 psi input or better. Make sure you put the white backing washer in first. Start with a new PT oring and keep using that oring in the different carriers. You should be able to hold the carrier and just suspend the bolt over your hand. If the bolt drops, it's probably too loose unless the next one down feels too tight. Make sure you have the velocity turned up to about 270.
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Old 01-22-2012, 05:35 PM   #5 (permalink)
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yup - if it's leaking down the bolt the problem is with oring #2 and the carriers.
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Old 01-22-2012, 05:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spider! View Post
Start with no shims, gold spring, 850 psi input or better. Make sure you put the white backing washer in first. Start with a new PT oring and keep using that oring in the different carriers. You should be able to hold the carrier and just suspend the bolt over your hand. If the bolt drops, it's probably too loose unless the next one down feels too tight. Make sure you have the velocity turned up to about 270.
Ok, with no shims and the smallest carrier (all of the others will just let the bolt fall if i hole it by the carrier) I still have a very small leak but that doesnt bother me that much and i think that it will seal up once i break it in more and oil soaks through the oring more.

now my problem is, the bolt is super hard on paint. It is defiantly less than the stock bolt but Im sure that it will still chop paint. And I have tried the longest spring so that means that i need more shims right? but if i add shims then the leaks get much bigger
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Old 01-22-2012, 05:47 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanhall41 View Post
now my problem is, the bolt is super hard on paint. It is defiantly less than the stock bolt but Im sure that it will still chop paint. And I have tried the longest spring so that means that i need more shims right? but if i add shims then the leaks get much bigger
are the springs new? They wear out - you might just need to get new long springs.

start here:

Automags Online - Resources: The Level 10

go step by stepthe shims are for adjusting where the power stroke engages - you adjust them if the bolt doesn't reset after you stop it with something. The spring controls how softly the bolt moves before the power stroke engages.
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Old 01-22-2012, 05:49 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brycelarson View Post
are the springs new? They wear out - you might just need to get new long springs.

start here:

Automags Online - Resources: The Level 10

go step by stepthe shims are for adjusting where the power stroke engages - you adjust them if the bolt doesn't reset after you stop it with something. The spring controls how softly the bolt moves before the power stroke engages.
It is a used kit so i have no idea how worn they are
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Old 01-22-2012, 05:53 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanhall41 View Post
It is a used kit so i have no idea how worn they are
yeah, so basically the strength of the spring controls how hard the bolt pushes until the oring passes the taper on the bolt - then it runs at full chop-your-finger-off mag speed. The spacers change where that full pressure drops in, but not how hard it pushes before it engages. The bolt spring holds back against the initial low pressure push.

So yeah, I would get a new set of springs. My most recent Lv10 project is doing the same thing. Cycles great, no leaks but it's WAY harder on the first part of the stroke than I want it. The springs are just worn down.
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Old 01-22-2012, 05:58 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by brycelarson View Post
yeah, so basically the strength of the spring controls how hard the bolt pushes until the oring passes the taper on the bolt - then it runs at full chop-your-finger-off mag speed. The spacers change where that full pressure drops in, but not how hard it pushes before it engages. The bolt spring holds back against the initial low pressure push.

So yeah, I would get a new set of springs. My most recent Lv10 project is doing the same thing. Cycles great, no leaks but it's WAY harder on the first part of the stroke than I want it. The springs are just worn down.
Ok, will do but quick question. If i push the swap to where it is touching the bolt head then the level 10 does not cycle and if i pull the swab back so it is about 1/4-3/8" then the bolt still doesnt not fully cycle, it just stops on the swab like it should. But if i back the swab out any farther then the bolt will shoot it right out of my hand (not really but it does kick pretty hard which will easily break paint) so what im asking is, is this normal? or should the bolt stop all forward motion no matter how much of the breech the swap is in?

I have 0 shims installed. If i ad just one then the bolt will leak. It sounds like i need a new set or springs and maybe the next smaller carrier which is the smallest one that they make
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