Paintball

[boonie282]

Hello all,

I just recently bought an Automag RT ULE Custom from AGD and I am considering eventually upgrading it with EMAG lowers in the near future.

The question I have is do I need to use an EMAG Rail with the Emag lowers or can I use the Automag RT ULE Custom rail with the Emag lowers?

Seems like I have read somewhere that an RT style rail works fine with Emag lowers but I am not totally sure.

Thanks

[sQuidvision]

It should work fine... Is it emag length? The short ones will still work but leave the top of the battery contacts exposed.

[Justus]

Yeah, it's the length that matters. An Emag frame is the same as any other frame as far as the screw pattern goes. It will work on any AGD rail (even a Classic RT if you put in a spacer to fill up the banjo bolt hole). The real question is, will the rail be long enough to cover the battery contacts. An Emag/RT Pro rail will do the job. An AM/MM rail will not. I'm not sure what rail came on your new RT ULE but I'm guessing it was the shorter rail that also comes on the new Tac One markers. If that's the case, it won't cover the battery contacts.

[MBarry829]

Wait, AGD still ships things?

[boonie282]

The rail I have on my Automag RT ULE is the same design as the one in the following pics:

[Justus]

It's the shortened version. Physically the Emag lowers will bolt on, but the battery will extend in front of the rail (it's just as long as the ULE body) and the rail won't cover the battery contacts.

Edit: it will look like this:

[luke-AO]

Originally Posted by boonie282

The rail I have on my Automag RT ULE is the same design as the one in the following pics:

That does not look like an RT to me, looks like a modded EM rail (From AGD). I believe they just remachined "new" old stock.

This is an RT>

[Justus]

It's the newer-style AGD ULE rail that comes on the RT ULE Customs and now the Tac One (unless you ask for the longer longbow-ready rail). It does appear to be a machined-down version of the old RT Pro rails. The milling pattern on the front half of the rail shows how the original RTP screw holes were removed and turned into an upside-down checkmark design.

[luke-AO]

I have not been to the AGD website for awhile, but I’m not sure why they would call it the "RT", that to me implies a banjo bolt and gas through rail design.

[Spider!]

Originally Posted by luke-AO

I have not been to the AGD website for awhile, but I’m not sure why they would call it the "RT", that to me implies a banjo bolt and gas through rail design.

That's the usual confusion with the RT "classic" (as you know it), and the RT Pro and the ReTro valve.

People buy the Classic RT and want to use RT Pro parts (or vice versa) and are sad. That's why I mentioned the "upgraders" in the discussion about the twistlock and your frame.