Spyder work - thoughts/quote?
I have decided to tackle my loaner/girlfriend's gun as a project. I don't want to do anything too extreme, I just want to satisfy my current desire to tinker and make the gun easier to use (and possibly perform better).
Instead of proposing solutions only, I will outline some 'issues' I have and maybe someone can lend their opinion.
#1 - People have gotten their fingers pinched by the bolt when they cock the marker (on the field, if the bolt does not re-cock fully) and it slips on them. I really like the JAM bolt, so I would like to convert it to top cocking. Is there any way to mill a slot in the top of the body and use a longer hammer pin so it extends out the top of the body? Maybe even make it be able to slide out so you can remove the bolt?
#2 - I don't like the cotter pin setup it currently has to remove the lower internals. Can a Cocker bolt pin work or be made to work? I am thinking that you might be able to open up both the hole in the body and the groove in the rear cap and use a spring loaded bolt pin.
#3 - Trigger work. Is there any way to make the trigger a bit lighter/snappier? Or is this just playing around with trigger springs and stops?
#4 - With regards to the front block and 'volumizer', is there any benefit to using a larger chamber? The one it has was taken from a VS1 or 2 as it was all I had.
#5 - There recently have been Type-R markers and parts put up for sale (Member's BST). Would using that nice valve be advantageous over the stock valve? Or is there another 'must have' valve for Spyders? I am not neccesarily looking for low pressure. The gun will be regulated using an AA Vigilante (I have springs to make it LP or HP) and I will be using a loop of stainless steel hose after the bottomline ASA. This marker will have to run well on CO2.
#6 - I need a safety for the Bob Long frame. Can I purchase this somewhere, or can a standard Spyder safety be made to work?
Are you saying your girlfriend's a loaner? :p
For the trigger can you add a trigger stop to reduce the length of the pull?
Have you considered converting it to a pump? That would solve the finger jamming issue. :p
I don't know if this is one of your problems or not, but many of the Spyders had slip-fit expension chambers. I had this made to be able to use standard ASA threaded regulators/expansion chambers:
If you're interested in it, I've got another one you can have for the cost of shipping.
(Note: I'm talking about the raw aluminum part, not any of the rest of the bits, ignore them, they are nothing :p)
It was a problem, but I managed to source a new front block a few years ago for it. It is now ASA threaded. Thanks. :)
With regards to the "nothing", are you making a FASOR or Spimmy?
It was for a VS1 bodied spimmy.
For problem number 1, I just hacked the "cage" off the back. Solved the problem instantly, but of course, it exposed the anodizing.
Not sure on this one. :(
It is actually a Victor II body, but that makes little difference I believe.
I would rather not half-back it, I like the look of the cage. I need some way for them to cock the gun without having to put their hands around the bolt. When you say "rear cocking", do you mean directly out the back of the cage? As in, not top, not side, not grasping the bolt itself like on the Spyder, but similar to the older Spyders?
I will take a look for aftermarket pins. That would be much better/easier, I just never knew they existed.
I am going to stay away electronics for the time being, I do love the feel of a mech gun and a single trigger.
i've got a retaining pin from a Silver bullet, its just a smidge too big for the pin hole on an Imagine. maybe need to remove 1/32 of an inch to make it work. This is the plunger and ball bearing type retaining pin, like cockers.
Critical, if nobody else wants that part, I can use it on the spyder fleet i'm building!
If your interested I have a LNIB Imaging Anti CHop Bolt, it has a cocking knob that can stick out of either side of the cage, allowing you to cock it much easier... I bought it, compressed it for a week to break it in, and a week later I got a supa fly bolt, and it's sat in ym tool box since.. I'll send it to ya for like cost of shipping if you want.. pm me if your interested.
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