KP2 valve dis-assembly!

Tugboater203 · 02-23-2007, 01:09 PM

I'm removing all the guts from my KP2 to resolder the tubes together. I just want to make sure I don't mess something hard to replace up while I'm doing it. I have the K2 owners manual with a diagram but it doesn't say anything about how to go about doing it. I await your advice ( Chad I'm looking your way

)

Thanks
Tug

c6quad · 02-23-2007, 02:49 PM

it comes apart the same as any old style sheridan valve. all the valve internals are available in the case that you would mess something up.

B posted a link in another thread that explained how to do it. i'll look for that link for you.

c6quad · 02-23-2007, 02:57 PM

here you go Tug. http://pgpog.org/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.c...num=1095281455

Schmitti · 02-23-2007, 04:50 PM

Just remember to take the pringle nut out before trying to remove or put in your valve guts.... if it doesn't fit in there perfectly it will make the valve pull very difficult.

E

c6quad · 02-23-2007, 05:22 PM

i haven't ever had any problems with the pringle nut/screw getting in the way. maybe i've just been lucky.

Tugboater203 · 02-23-2007, 07:02 PM

I knew I could count on you guys thanks!

Tug

c6quad · 02-23-2007, 08:11 PM

no problem Tug...

you might have a little trouble if the valve has never been out before. sometimes they need a little beating to get the last part out (the part that the 12 gram seats against).

i would use an empty 12 gram and a wooden dowel to smack it out. one very important thing to know when doing that is the 12 gram will not go all the way through. so don't hammer it too hard once you get the piece (the part that the 12 gram seats against) broke loose. before you start hammering, put an empty 12 gram down the tube then the dowel and mark the dowel and watch that mark when you start to hammer. the mark should only move a half inch or so and thats it.

Tugboater203 · 02-23-2007, 09:31 PM

OK cool! The fisrt seal and pin came out like gangbusters. Part of my kit is a rod about 1/2 inch in diameter with a T handle on one end and a threaded hole on the other. If I don't miss my guess you're supposed to remove the rod and cartridge holder from the 12 gr assembly and screw it into the other rod. Then use it to push out the valve assembly. I'll try but it's tough to get the thing apart.

Tug

c6quad · 02-23-2007, 09:53 PM

the rod you have will screw onto the exhaust body, and then you pull it out through the back of the bottom tube.

you don't use that rod to knock out the piece that i described earlier in this thread.

the pic elow shows the valve pieces in order. from left to right, the exhaust body is 2nd in the pic. it's threaded so your tool will screw onto it and you pull it out. the pin and spring should then fall out. the brass sleeve may come out on its own, if not, it will come out when you hammer the piece (far right in pic) out with the empty 12 gram and dowel.

c6quad · 02-23-2007, 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tugboater203

If I don't miss my guess you're supposed to remove the rod and cartridge holder from the 12 gr assembly and screw it into the other rod. Then use it to push out the valve assembly. I'll try but it's tough to get the thing apart.

Tug

no. you don't do that. the threads are for the exhaust valve as i described above.

use the 12 gram and dowel method.

02-23-2007, 01:09 PM	#1 (permalink)
Tugboater203 www.yankeepaintball.com Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Oxford,CT	KP2 valve dis-assembly! I'm removing all the guts from my KP2 to resolder the tubes together. I just want to make sure I don't mess something hard to replace up while I'm doing it. I have the K2 owners manual with a diagram but it doesn't say anything about how to go about doing it. I await your advice ( Chad I'm looking your way ) Thanks Tug __________________ Connecticut's woodsball field! Bookmark www.yankeepaintball.com Paintball is Fun! What others think of me Tugs Feedback Yankee Paintball will close for the winter Nov 30th. We'll reopen in April '09. Thanks for your support!

02-23-2007, 04:50 PM	#4 (permalink)
Schmitti Red=Moderator Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Schen. NY	Just remember to take the pringle nut out before trying to remove or put in your valve guts.... if it doesn't fit in there perfectly it will make the valve pull very difficult. E __________________ Gone fishing

02-23-2007, 07:02 PM	#6 (permalink)
Tugboater203 www.yankeepaintball.com Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Oxford,CT	I knew I could count on you guys thanks! Tug __________________ Connecticut's woodsball field! Bookmark www.yankeepaintball.com Paintball is Fun! What others think of me Tugs Feedback Yankee Paintball will close for the winter Nov 30th. We'll reopen in April '09. Thanks for your support!

02-23-2007, 09:31 PM	#8 (permalink)
Tugboater203 www.yankeepaintball.com Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Oxford,CT	OK cool! The fisrt seal and pin came out like gangbusters. Part of my kit is a rod about 1/2 inch in diameter with a T handle on one end and a threaded hole on the other. If I don't miss my guess you're supposed to remove the rod and cartridge holder from the 12 gr assembly and screw it into the other rod. Then use it to push out the valve assembly. I'll try but it's tough to get the thing apart. Tug __________________ Connecticut's woodsball field! Bookmark www.yankeepaintball.com Paintball is Fun! What others think of me Tugs Feedback Yankee Paintball will close for the winter Nov 30th. We'll reopen in April '09. Thanks for your support!

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search

02-23-2007, 02:49 PM	#2 (permalink)
c6quad MCB Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: NC	it comes apart the same as any old style sheridan valve. all the valve internals are available in the case that you would mess something up. B posted a link in another thread that explained how to do it. i'll look for that link for you.

02-23-2007, 02:57 PM	#3 (permalink)
c6quad MCB Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: NC	here you go Tug. http://pgpog.org/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.c...num=1095281455

02-23-2007, 05:22 PM	#5 (permalink)
c6quad MCB Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: NC	i haven't ever had any problems with the pringle nut/screw getting in the way. maybe i've just been lucky.

02-23-2007, 08:11 PM	#7 (permalink)
c6quad MCB Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: NC	no problem Tug... you might have a little trouble if the valve has never been out before. sometimes they need a little beating to get the last part out (the part that the 12 gram seats against). i would use an empty 12 gram and a wooden dowel to smack it out. one very important thing to know when doing that is the 12 gram will not go all the way through. so don't hammer it too hard once you get the piece (the part that the 12 gram seats against) broke loose. before you start hammering, put an empty 12 gram down the tube then the dowel and mark the dowel and watch that mark when you start to hammer. the mark should only move a half inch or so and thats it.

02-23-2007, 09:53 PM	#9 (permalink)
c6quad MCB Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: NC	the rod you have will screw onto the exhaust body, and then you pull it out through the back of the bottom tube. you don't use that rod to knock out the piece that i described earlier in this thread. the pic elow shows the valve pieces in order. from left to right, the exhaust body is 2nd in the pic. it's threaded so your tool will screw onto it and you pull it out. the pin and spring should then fall out. the brass sleeve may come out on its own, if not, it will come out when you hammer the piece (far right in pic) out with the empty 12 gram and dowel.