Upgrading to X Valve. Need Advice
So, I was going to ask this on the Automag forum, but I was having trouble registering over there. So I'm hoping you guys can help me out. I'm getting ready to upgrade my automag from a Classic Level 7 Valve to an X Valve:
There's the mag I'm running.Y Frame, ULE Body, Ninja Tank, and a 68 Classic Valve. Here's the questions I have:
If I don't have any extra parts for my 'mag, should I just order a new valve instead of buying a used one? I figure I'm going to need all of the spacers and whatnot to fine tune the level 10.
Without an intelliframe, will I still see an increase in BPS? I'm planning on taking a shim out of my ninja reg to increase my PSI into the valve, but I really don't want to install electronics or additional pneumatics.
I'm chopping paint with my 12v revvy. What's a good hopper that will feed about the same speed as an X Valve? There's some nice Halo's floating around on the BST.
I think that's it, any other advice for upgrading?
If you look around, you should be able to find an x-valve with extra parts for sale. So I would recommend waiting and buying used.
Still newer to mags, so that next question confuses me. Are you talking about rting?
Um, with the level 10 bolt you won't chop, but you may need a better hopper to keep up if you plan on shooting faster. I currently have a valken v-max. If you're looking for cheaper, a halo or empire b reloader would be your best bet.
you will definitely see an increase in RTability with the x-valve... especially if you can get your input pressure up into the 900-1100 range. I would recommend looking for an xvalve with an RT on/off if you enjoy the RT action... also if you are new to tuning a lvl10 it is one less thing to worry about (as opposed to an xvalve with a ULT trigger)
As for the hopper, a halo would certainly keep up but keep in mid you will have a lvl10 now... so chopping is going to be a thing of the past. If you do decide you still want a force feed loader I personally am a huge fan of the rotor. Yes they are expensive, but they downright rock and are tough as nails. Also you can break them down for maintenance (which is almost non-existant) without any tools. Just a super solid product all around. ...Ohh yea... and one of the fastest loaders on the market!
You need the fastest on the market to keep up with a well tuned RT mag.
The bps is mostly a function of the input pressure. You'll need to add a shim to the ninja to get the pressure up. You'll need a halo or something if you want to shoot over 12 bps or so. Halo and B2s work fine, they are just heavy and bulky compared to the new stuff.
Any AGD frame will run about the same, they just feel different in the trigger.
The benchmark frames have a different geometry that looks to me like it would be a hindrance to Rt'ing, but I changed mine before trying to make it work originally.
Pm Beemer here on MCB about getting your username setup on AO.
here are a few vids w/different hoppers all keeping up with the Mag:
First is one w/a evolution:
Automag ULE Retro Valve - YouTube
next is a halo on a fast pneumag:
Pneumag lives! - YouTube
next is a RT classic with a 12V revvy:
AutoMag RT Classic - YouTube
next is a Warp feed w/ a halo:
Automag RT ULE - YouTube
and my favorite a MiniMag w/X-valve and a invert too 9v:
RTing my Minimag - YouTube
hoping that helps out with your decision on hoppers! for your X-Valve it depends on if you can a afford a new valve...if you can do it, but the way most people here treat there Mags you will find alot of used valves that are mint w/all the spare parts included! best advice is to do your research, buy a parts either before or at the same time you buy a used one, and have fun!!!
i would recommend buying a new one from AGD or Tunaman. Not only will it come with all of the lvl 10 spares you will need, but you can tell them what you are putting it in and they will make sure you have the proper on/off pin length.
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