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|11-19-2012, 04:51 PM||#1 (permalink)|
Needs new knees
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: St. Louis
94-95 Autococker upgrades?
I bought Freebirds Swift Line Autococker/Sniper gun and I think I want to build it as what someone would have in 94-95. So what was THE top barrels, air set ups, bolts etc, for that time period. I am considering trying to find a Thumper expansion chamber and running Co2, but I do want to play with this, so I may go with an AA or PMS air system.
|11-19-2012, 05:52 PM||#3 (permalink)|
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: A2, Michigan
All American barrel probably or possibly a J&J brass. For the bolt, honestly I'd just leave it stock. There may be some "upgrades" but there would be little benefit over the stock one. For the pneus, I would probably change the LPR to a PPS with the adjustment knob.
|11-19-2012, 08:38 PM||#4 (permalink)|
Euro-feed RT lover
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Nashville, TN
I would buy some old APG's from someone here to get ideas from. Most of the advertisements will be cockers and mags.
Or ask a kind soul on here to scan some and send you some pics! I do remember the original AA barrels Moses mentioned. Aside from the green front one, there was also a pinkish one I used to see alot back then.
|11-19-2012, 08:59 PM||#5 (permalink)|
I agree with MaD.... For the barrel, BOA or J&J brass (plated or not). There were not many bolts that were really an "upgrade" back then. I tried several different brands of bolt in the 96-97 timeframe and all were crap. I went back to stock.
|11-20-2012, 08:39 AM||#6 (permalink)|
I believe AKA lightning bolts came out around that time along with Javalins, though they were rare.
PPS pneu's most likely.
Boa, J&J, AA, or even a DYE stainless (not boomstick) for a barrel.
Exp. Chamber, Stabilizer, Unireg are your most likely reg/exp options
Oh, a threaded timing rod was a nice upgrade then as well I think.
It is not the critic who counts, not the man who points out how the strong man stumbled, or where the doer of deeds could have done better. The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena; whose face is marred by the dust and sweat and blood; who strives valiantly; who errs and comes short again and again; who knows the great enthusiasms, the great devotions and spends himself in a worthy course; who at the best, knows in the end the triumph of high achievement, and who, at worst, if he fails, at least fails while daring greatly; so that his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who know neither victory or defeat. - Theodore Roosevelt
|11-20-2012, 10:32 AM||#7 (permalink)|
Needs new knees
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: St. Louis
Anyone have any info when aftermarket frames came out? How about cut back blocks? I am pretty sure the Mini Cocker came out with the cut back block around then. Threaded timing rod is a necessity as I see it, those slip fit ones never held time very well. Rock lpr is a given for this project, I probably will just go with the brass 3-way and brass ram. For a barrel, when I figure out which one I want to use, it will be freak bored so its usable for todays paint.
Thanks, for everyones contributions so far!
|11-20-2012, 11:29 AM||#8 (permalink)|
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Palmer, MA
I know I had a cut back block, beaver tail, and smart parts wood grips on mine, I think that was about it. a 1 ball push pin was stock and everyone was upgrading to a 4 ball push pin.
Expansion chamber with hardline I think it was Air America.
I bought it all tricked out off the guy that ran the local field when his kids changed over from cockers to mags so it had most of the available upgrades.
I think a cooper T detent was a big deal too.
|11-20-2012, 12:58 PM||#9 (permalink)|
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Fascist Valley
Ask dan, he's pretty good with this stuff (baccipaintball.com).
Would LOVE to see what it looks like, you know, before-after kinda thing
I need YOU to build me a custom Sheridan body! or Sell Me Your PMI-I, P68-SC or P-12 Complete Gun or Just the Body!
"Have You Seen Molly?"
Fall in Love With Your [Working] Thumper All Over Again!
WTB Sheridan Parts/Upgrades (Sight Rail & Cooper-T bolts/CA adapters/ASAs)
|11-20-2012, 06:18 PM||#10 (permalink)|
Mad Science of Paintball
Join Date: Jul 2011
There was actually quite a bit available in that timeframe.
For air, I know I bought a PMS/Nitro-Duck FW71 HPA tank in '95. I haven't seen another one on the used market in well over a decade, so it might be kind of tricky to find. They also had an oddball tank mounting ring rather than a cradle- the removable-bottle PMS systems weren't 'til later, around '97/'98.
Also, those oddball "fire extinguisher" tanks would be well past their last hydro date- some hydrotesters will go by the old standard (for the tank) of five three-year hydrotests (regardless of whether you have them done five or even ten years apart) while others stick to the now-common fifteen-year overall lifespan.
If you can find the former, you could still reuse an old tank. If the latter, it's well past the scrap date.
A better, and equally period-correct, solution would be to dig up an old Air America tank. (This was before they were called "Raptors".) To be "correct", you need the full size reg body, not the ones turned down on the upper section. You'll still probably have to swap the tank, but you can still get 68ci 3K CF tanks today.
Hook that to an old full-size Unireg, use braided line and a QD (not a "ProConnect") and you're set. You'll also need to find an old "Fred Schultz" cradle for the AA- it's one of the more common ones, should be easy to find if you ask around.
As for back blocks, yes, the MiniCocker came with a cut block back in '91 or '92, and was pretty common on full-size 'Cockers by '94.
Ditto .45 frames. You pretty much only had a choice of a Benchmark .45 or a TASO- the TASO had sort of a palm swell shape, but they were essentially functionally identical. A much more rare option- you're unlikely to find one- is an old Marksmann aluminum stock-profile frame. Had the same shape as the stock single-grip-screw frames, but were milled from aluminum and could be anodized.
Marksmann (from the UK) had 'em in their splash-anno body kits, and Smart Parts firesaled off a handful about ten years ago, but I don't see 'em very often.
There weren't many barrels. As noted already, you could get Smart Parts "rifled" barrels (and possibly some of their others like the Venturi or Progressive) there were always BOA and J&J brass (sometimes bare, sometimes chromed or nickeled) DYE had their stainless and I'm sure there were two or three other smaller makers too.
If period correctness is what you're after, find a Smart Parts that has a straight (not milled) back half, and have it bored for Freak inserts.
There were several bolts available, none are worth trying to dredge up. Bolts did virtually nothing, though a too-large center hole can hurt gas efficiency.
There were several expansion chambers available, but you won't need 'em if you run air. (Which I recommend.) If you want to go with CO2, you'd want to find a TASO, early ANS or old Skan-Line 'chamber, if you can't find a Thumper.
For the pneumatics, to be "correct", you need an old "cup and clip" 3-way, an early stock ram or a Clippard (not a "mini ram") and a Rock LPR. Aluminum ones could be had by that time, but if you looked around, you might be able to dig up a brass-body one. (Look for the ones with a 3/8" allen adjuster on the front, not the big PGP-style caps.)
For the aluminum ones, again to be 'correct', it should have the foil Palmer's sticker (and not the laser engraving) no "coin slot" in the front cap, and a brass nipple.
For the last little details, find some of those little spring covers that go over the LP hoses, as well as the little brass 'top hat' hose retainers.
Also, find a black or silver (they didn't have colors then) ribbed aluminum or brass trigger shoe, the 4-ball quick pull bolt pin with the black had and blue button, and use a PVC plumbing elbow.
In '95, I had to special-order a nickled ball detent, so you might want to find one in brass. Stainless pump and cocking rods will probably be okay, but again, for that bit of period detail, you might want to dig up some of the older black-oxided steel ones.
The front block bolt has to be 3/8" (not the post-2K 9/16") and either blackened for a period look, or nickeled for a little bling. There were no stainless ones back then, so it's gotta be a stocker, black or plated.
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