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-   -   What do you use/do to polish your raw aluminum? (http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/ask-experts/220796-what-do-you-use-do-polish-your-raw-aluminum.html)

Donut SD 12-10-2012 04:49 PM

What do you use/do to polish your raw aluminum?
 
Hey experts. I've got some raw parts in my possession. So you know the degree of what I'd like, it's a raw automag body and rail, and a gripframe. I want these things to shine. The surface on the frame is smooth, but not shiny. The body seems kinda rough and the rail looks like it was polished before.

Any advice, help, tool suggestions, procedures helps. I have a portable power drill/screwdriver at my disposal if this requires high spinny stuff. Compounds / polish I have no idea what I need so I've come to you all for the advice

Thanks everyone :)

sniper42 12-10-2012 08:11 PM

Depending on the surface finish at the start, I use sandpaper/steel wool working up to finer grits then I use mothers mag aluminum polish to polish it to a mirror shine.

Jo crickets 12-10-2012 08:13 PM

Never dull works good too

capitalpaintball 12-10-2012 08:14 PM

Mothers aluminum mag polish. its freakin awesome

ta2maki 12-11-2012 12:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by capitalpaintball (Post 2558914)
Mothers aluminum mag polish. its freakin awesome

Yes. Mothers is what I use the most when polishing. After you polish, use a car wax/sealant to keep it shiny. Personally, I use TFP.

Nobody 12-11-2012 01:01 PM

i use spit and the blood of my fallen enemies. it comes out shiny like chromium. :p:rolleyes:

ApoC_101 12-11-2012 01:09 PM

need a big buffer wheel and the right compound, at the correct speeds, using the right technique to get a real polish. Then it needs to be cleaned properly to remove the **** from the surface, and then it either needs to be anodized or sealed somehow. If you intend to keep it non-anodized, it should be subjected to controlled oxidization to passivate the surface, or seal the surface with either a wax or a synthetic coating. My favourite non-anodized finish is still DPH due to the great scratch resistance and very even/consistent looking natural oxide surface, but you can achieve that with polished aluminum as well (it just isn't as practical for field use, and it's tricky to get it treated perfectly since it lacks porosity to retain a coating properly).

Donut SD 12-11-2012 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ApoC_101 (Post 2559555)
need a big buffer wheel and the right compound, at the correct speeds, using the right technique to get a real polish. Then it needs to be cleaned properly to remove the **** from the surface, and then it either needs to be anodized or sealed somehow. If you intend to keep it non-anodized, it should be subjected to controlled oxidization to passivate the surface, or seal the surface with either a wax or a synthetic coating. My favourite non-anodized finish is still DPH due to the great scratch resistance and very even/consistent looking natural oxide surface, but you can achieve that with polished aluminum as well (it just isn't as practical for field use, and it's tricky to get it treated perfectly since it lacks porosity to retain a coating properly).

At that point I believe a clear anno is acceptable to keep it shiny.

souz4402 12-12-2012 10:34 PM

between each successive step of sanding and then polishing you should wash all parts with warm soapy water

alpha434 12-13-2012 12:35 AM

Ceramic balls.


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