Sniper valve issue

Moose · 08-11-2006, 11:19 PM

I am in the process of putting together a 'parts box' sniper 2. I have a stock 2K body, sidewinder, new dye hammer and IVG and a used Rat 3:16 or an ANS valve to use.

I start out with the ans valve, medium valve spring, medium hammer spring. When I first air up, no leaks. The first time I fire it, whoosh, the valve stays open. I turn the pressure down, same result. So, I put in the lightest hammer spring I have, no change.

I then put the rat 3:16 in and get the exact same results.

Do any of you have any suggestions?

B · 08-11-2006, 11:39 PM

Use a stock WGP valve for CO2 it is far more tolerant of higher pressures and freezing unlike all the LP valves you have mentioned.

Moose · 08-11-2006, 11:48 PM

I'm actually running HPA through it (At least for now).

taliesian · 08-12-2006, 02:02 AM

I have never used ans valves, but the rat 3:16 I have used. I would try this- reverse the valve seal(little plastice piece on the front of valve) lube it and the valve stem well with dow 33 or vasaline, crank the in line pressure up and dry fire several times to seat the cupseal. I have had them dry out if not used and this method has worked well for me to recover valve.

HurtCow · 08-12-2006, 02:08 AM

My Maddman Rocket valve does that when the pressure's too low. Try cranking the pressure up to hold the cupseal down tighter.

K_Obeastly · 08-12-2006, 06:10 PM

I agree with hurtcow on this. raise your pressure. The rat 3:16 is intended to run a pressure above 300 PSI, try 325-350.

3022 · 08-13-2006, 06:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Moose

I start out with the ans valve, medium valve spring, medium hammer spring. When I first air up, no leaks. The first time I fire it, whoosh, the valve stays open. I turn the pressure down, same result. So, I put in the lightest hammer spring I have, no change.

I then put the rat 3:16 in and get the exact same results.

Do any of you have any suggestions?

I think that you need stronger valve spring not weaker... or softer cup-seal material.

08-11-2006, 11:19 PM	#1 (permalink)
Moose Kicking Cancer's *** Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: The Sticks, SC	Sniper valve issue I am in the process of putting together a 'parts box' sniper 2. I have a stock 2K body, sidewinder, new dye hammer and IVG and a used Rat 3:16 or an ANS valve to use. I start out with the ans valve, medium valve spring, medium hammer spring. When I first air up, no leaks. The first time I fire it, whoosh, the valve stays open. I turn the pressure down, same result. So, I put in the lightest hammer spring I have, no change. I then put the rat 3:16 in and get the exact same results. Do any of you have any suggestions? __________________ Beating the crap out of cancer. Proud Recipient of Project M - Thanks MCB!!! MCB Feedback

08-11-2006, 11:48 PM	#3 (permalink)
Moose Kicking Cancer's *** Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: The Sticks, SC	I'm actually running HPA through it (At least for now). __________________ Beating the crap out of cancer. Proud Recipient of Project M - Thanks MCB!!! MCB Feedback

08-12-2006, 02:02 AM	#4 (permalink)
taliesian Newbie Join Date: Jul 2006	I have never used ans valves, but the rat 3:16 I have used. I would try this- reverse the valve seal(little plastice piece on the front of valve) lube it and the valve stem well with dow 33 or vasaline, crank the in line pressure up and dry fire several times to seat the cupseal. I have had them dry out if not used and this method has worked well for me to recover valve. Last edited by taliesian; 08-12-2006 at 02:19 AM.

08-12-2006, 06:10 PM	#6 (permalink)
K_Obeastly Post Whore Join Date: Jul 2006	I agree with hurtcow on this. raise your pressure. The rat 3:16 is intended to run a pressure above 300 PSI, try 325-350. __________________ I b da fat one http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oERRPtEf8EM If loud pipes save lives imagine what bright pink helmets could do.

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08-12-2006, 02:08 AM	#5 (permalink)
HurtCow Thick Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Rocklin, CA	My Maddman Rocket valve does that when the pressure's too low. Try cranking the pressure up to hold the cupseal down tighter.