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Old 03-26-2014, 10:16 AM   #11 (permalink)
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A couple of options

$11 DIY option - 5-Piece Basic Soldering Set - Soldering Gun & Tool Set | RadioShack


eBAY forum sales - buy a cheap new/used board swap it out and be done e.g.
Ape Rampage Board for Tippmann 98 US Army Markers | eBay
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I translated this as: Scenario games are popular with overshooting douchebags raging on cocaine and steroid cocktails while roasting puppies and punching babies. Stay home unless you enjoy impromptu fistfights.
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Old 03-26-2014, 10:30 AM   #12 (permalink)
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A couple of options

$11 DIY option - 5-Piece Basic Soldering Set - Soldering Gun & Tool Set | RadioShack


eBAY forum sales - buy a cheap new/used board swap it out and be done e.g.
Ape Rampage Board for Tippmann 98 US Army Markers | eBay
It's an E-Bolt board not an E-Grip board. As I understand it, E-Bolts are hard to find.
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Old 03-26-2014, 11:13 AM   #13 (permalink)
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It's an E-Bolt board not an E-Grip board. As I understand it, E-Bolts are hard to find.
Admittedly it has been awhile but weren't there a number of boards that were used as replacements for the stock e-bolt boards especially if wanting to install eyes?

WAS - SD T board - certain DM boards ?
Although this would also require some soldering I suppose unless someone still produces the whole kit.
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I translated this as: Scenario games are popular with overshooting douchebags raging on cocaine and steroid cocktails while roasting puppies and punching babies. Stay home unless you enjoy impromptu fistfights.
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Old 03-26-2014, 06:34 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Pictures would help, I could then answer more completely. But it sounds like you are on the right track.

Ground is the correct term, although ground is a funny concept, since ground is relative and thus doesn't necessarily mean the same potential as the ground.
So sorry for not responding earlier ,but school has been busier more then usual ,but I'm looking for my camera it I should have it in a bit .

Here you go: http://imgur.com/4lva93h

I can get more if needed.

Last edited by Lovemesomepumps; 03-26-2014 at 06:41 PM. Reason: Got pics
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Old 03-26-2014, 08:45 PM   #15 (permalink)
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You really want to do this right.

Remove all of the old solder [solder wick best/cheapest method you are heating up the braided wick to melt old solder and natural capillary action will pull up and off the board]. The clean the surface of the PCB with alcohol. Strip back the wires to ~PCB thickness and pre-tin the wires [this is bridging the solder iron to the exposed stranded wire and adding a little solder to lightly coat the wire strands]. Insert the wire into the through hole and hold in place. Then turn the PCB over and bridge the solder iron at the junction to between the wire and the through hole pad and when you see the solder bridge start to wick up the wire into the hole add solder to the wire and allow it to naturally fill the through hole. Do not add too much the fillets when you are done should be concave, smooth and shiny.

Make sure you do not use plumbing solder it has an acid based rosin flux core that will eat you PCB what you really want is eutectic solder [63/37 Sn/Pb solder]. A small roll will last a hobbyist for ages and is the easiest form of solder to work with. If you local supplier has it liquid flux is nice to have. You can add a small drop to the wire/pad that when heated will clean oxides off the surfaces to make soldering even easier and better joints too.
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Old 03-26-2014, 08:53 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Grendel View Post
You really want to do this right.

Remove all of the old solder [solder wick best/cheapest method you are heating up the braided wick to melt old solder and natural capillary action will pull up and off the board]. The clean the surface of the PCB with alcohol. Strip back the wires to ~PCB thickness and pre-tin the wires [this is bridging the solder iron to the exposed stranded wire and adding a little solder to lightly coat the wire strands]. Insert the wire into the through hole and hold in place. Then turn the PCB over and bridge the solder iron at the junction to between the wire and the through hole pad and when you see the solder bridge start to wick up the wire into the hole add solder to the wire and allow it to naturally fill the through hole. Do not add too much the fillets when you are done should be concave, smooth and shiny.

Make sure you do not use plumbing solder it has an acid based rosin flux core that will eat you PCB what you really want is eutectic solder [63/37 Sn/Pb solder]. A small roll will last a hobbyist for ages and is the easiest form of solder to work with. If you local supplier has it liquid flux is nice to have. You can add a small drop to the wire/pad that when heated will clean oxides off the surfaces to make soldering even easier and better joints too.
I understood about 25% of that. Do you think I should just go to a hobby shop and have them do it since they know alot more about it then me ?
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Old 03-26-2014, 09:07 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Not real hard.

This is not a bad basic solder tips/instructions.

How to Solder, tips and tricks - YouTube

If you really want to learn these lessons while old are well done by a great soldering company PACE.

Basic Soldering Lessons 1 - 9 - YouTube
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Last edited by Grendel; 03-26-2014 at 09:13 PM.
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Old 03-26-2014, 09:29 PM   #18 (permalink)
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That video explained alot ,but what do you mean when you say bridge the solder iron at the junction to between the wire and the through hole pad and when you see the solder bridge start to wick up the wire into the hole add solder to the wire and allow it to naturally fill the through hole. ?
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Old 03-26-2014, 11:54 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Solder flows towards heat. If you have ever soldered plumbing pipes PCB soldering is the same idea on a smaller scale. Do not add solder to the tip of the Iron. Let the iron heat both the wire and the ring around the hole. Apply solder to the opposite side of the wire that you have the iron placed and allow the heat to draw the solder to the iron. There is no need to flood the entire place with solder, a little dab will do ya. The general rule of thumb is that you shouldn't use more length that you have width, obviously you aren't going to be that proficient at it, and that is okay, but don't glob on massive amounts.

Eutectic is just a fancy way of saying bi-metal. Basically by pairing Tin (Sn) with Lead (Pb) the lead melts at a lower temp and the Tim has better structural properties. By mixing them the solder melts and flows very nicely and evenly and stays liquid longer compared to just straight Tin. The Tin offers better electrical and thermal conductivity as well as superior mechanical properties (NOTE: SOLDER JOINTS ARE NOT MECHANICAL JOINTS).

What Grendel highlighted above is the proper way of doing things, I personally wouldn't be that anal about everything, but since this is through hole and the solder looks to be exceptionally crappy, you will need to remove the old solder. As far as rosin or flux goes (the terms aren't interchangeable) I wouldn't bother with it, and I also wouldn't bother with cleaning with isopropyl. That is the proper way of doing things, but you are far from a high reliability application and extra cost, time and hazards (from the rosin or flux, that stuff is toxic as all get out) are not worth it to me.

When I have some time tomorrow I can make up a quick video showing exactly what you need to do by replicating the circumstances.

EDIT: Also if you want to add some tension relief to help diminish the risk of it happening again you can dab a little epoxy over the connection. For something a little less permanent you can use something like a white glue.
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Old 03-27-2014, 07:29 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Bridging solder - means to add a very small amount of solder at the point of contact between the Iron Tip and the surface you are trying to heat with the iron. This improves heat conduction so you get the area up to temp quicker. This also helps not over penetrating with the heat which can cause PCB damage.

PCB - Printed Circuit Board

Eutectic solder 67/37 is a very specific form of Tin Lead Solder that when melting goes from solid to liquid and back without appreciable time in a plastic state. This is a preferred solder in Leaded soldering of electronics because it helps mitigate cold or fractured solder joints [a very typical root cause failure of commercial electronics]. 60/40 Sn/Pb [Tin/Lead] is an acceptable alternative for most Lead Soldering.

Wicking is the movement melted solder from the source up a surface by capillary action and yes solder does like to travel toward the heat source. That is why you add solder to what is being heated not what supplies the hear.

Being anal about this repair will ensure you will not have to do it again or have a latent failure which will most likely happen according to Murphy's Law while you have someone you've been hunting all day in your sights.

Rosin Flux - is a type of organic [flux] chemical used to clean metal surfaces by etching the the oxides off the metal. There are many types of Fluxes and Rosin is but one of them. Most people refer to some solder as Rosin Core solder. This is a type of solder that has Flux already inside it and it is very common. Just look at the solder label it usually will tell you if it is for Electronic Soldering.

Good Luck
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