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Old 03-24-2014, 08:27 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Soldering wires to boards

Hey guys In my ebolt the solenoid wires were very thin and when I went to take the board out for cleaning the wires broke off the board. Now, my question is how hard is it to solder the wires back into place ? Also, should the ebolt have possibly the biggest gas hog on the planet ? Like I'm talking maybe 2 hoppers off a 45/45.
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Old 03-24-2014, 08:31 PM   #2 (permalink)
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It's pretty easy to solder the wires back. If you have sufficient slack just strip the end, get your iron and push the wire back into the solder already on the board.
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Old 03-24-2014, 09:44 PM   #3 (permalink)
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It's pretty easy to solder the wires back. If you have sufficient slack just strip the end, get your iron and push the wire back into the solder already on the board.
I'm a total newbie and dont even own a solder ,but thanks I'm gonna drop it off at my local pro shop next time I go out
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Old 03-24-2014, 10:17 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I'm a total newbie and dont even own a solder ,but thanks I'm gonna drop it off at my local pro shop next time I go out
It's pretty easy. You can do it with a cheapo iron from Radioshack or the like. I'm not sure that the guys at the local pro shop will have the required skills any more than you do.
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Old 03-24-2014, 10:46 PM   #5 (permalink)
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It's pretty easy. You can do it with a cheapo iron from Radioshack or the like. I'm not sure that the guys at the local pro shop will have the required skills any more than you do.

Hmm I do live near a radioshack I might try this week ,but just to make sure on the board the 4 points (have to idea what they are called) have BAT +/BAT- on the top two and VLU-/VLU+ on the bottom. I'm assuming that BAT + means battery positive and that would be the red wire and the BAT- would be "ground"(no idea what technical term is) and that would be the black wire, but for the VLUs I'm also assuming the VLU refers to the valve so that means the VLU- is the black wire leading from the valve and the VLU+ is the blue wire.

If the above stuff is too much I'll try to get some pics of the board itself.

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Old 03-25-2014, 12:20 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Hmm I do live near a radioshack I might try this week ,but just to make sure on the board the 4 points (have to idea what they are called) have BAT +/BAT- on the top two and VLU-/VLU+ on the bottom. I'm assuming that BAT + means battery positive and that would be the red wire and the BAT- would be "ground"(no idea what technical term is) and that would be the black wire, but for the VLUs I'm also assuming the VLU refers to the valve so that means the VLU- is the black wire leading from the valve and the VLU+ is the blue wire.

If the above stuff is too much I'll try to get some pics of the board itself.
Pictures would help, I could then answer more completely. But it sounds like you are on the right track.

Ground is the correct term, although ground is a funny concept, since ground is relative and thus doesn't necessarily mean the same potential as the ground.
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Old 03-25-2014, 01:47 PM   #7 (permalink)
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meh, radio shack stocks garbage. go to sears instead. a 45w iron should be fine; pick up some solder wick and silver solder (96% tin 4% silver) while you're at it. if you plan on doing it yourself, take care not to overhead the board. maybe watch some videos on youtube.
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Barrels are like girls... Some people are just happy to have one that looks good. Or even one that everyone else likes. Other people want a tight, accurate bore to run their balls through.
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Old 03-25-2014, 02:46 PM   #8 (permalink)
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meh, radio shack stocks garbage. go to sears instead. a 45w iron should be fine; pick up some solder wick and silver solder (96% tin 4% silver) while you're at it. if you plan on doing it yourself, take care not to overhead the board. maybe watch some videos on youtube.
Unless the board was wave soldered to begin with there should be more than enough solder already on the board, the last thing you want to do is add even more. I would also no use silver solder over a lead based solder since it is harder to use properly as well as will splatter much more easily, which for a beginner can be scary and off putting. There is no need to adhere to an ROHS standard for this. Further silver solder still has the whisker problem. You aren't incorrect silver solder would be the most proper way, but lead solder will serve the purpose and the user better in this situation.

The irons found as Sears are the same garbage you find at Radioshack. In this instance all you need is a garbage Iron. Good iron's are only useful if you have no idea what you are doing or need to be making a business out of it, where time and reproducibility are of utmost importance. 45W is a lot, I've never seen such a powerful iron before (except the guns that have a completely different purpose than electronics), 15W is plenty in this case and the standard 25W-35W irons you find at any hobby shop are plenty. It's a small pad with small traces, not an entire ground plane.
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Old 03-26-2014, 06:45 AM   #9 (permalink)
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*shrugs* in my experience i've found it easier to just remove the remaining solder and start with a clean hole. to be fair, i'm not a soldering expert, i just tinker with stuff now and then.
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Barrels are like girls... Some people are just happy to have one that looks good. Or even one that everyone else likes. Other people want a tight, accurate bore to run their balls through.
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Old 03-26-2014, 09:45 AM   #10 (permalink)
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*shrugs* in my experience i've found it easier to just remove the remaining solder and start with a clean hole. to be fair, i'm not a soldering expert, i just tinker with stuff now and then.
Ah, I didn't think of through hole. In the case of through hole you are 100% correct, you would would want to use a wick or solda-pult type tool to remove the solder from the hole.

I was thinking about just a pad, with a blob of solder on top. You just lay the wire on the blob, then using the iron push the wire into the blob and you are done.
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