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Old 06-26-2008, 12:41 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Just a idea,

ok, if i am able to find sombody who does metal working, than this will be my first, and proboby most rememberale custom project that i will make. here is my idea. You can see that i have the standard rocking spyder trigger, my idea is to get this trigger to work on a autococker. You can see that these triggers have demensions that are vary alike. First, the trigger "raise" (what does stop the hammer ) as you can see is too high, Because of this, i suppose the only thing you could do is to lower it, i suppose by "grinding it down" and if it turns out that this project is possible, I would advise getting another stock "raise" so you can switch out the two if you want to go back to using it on your spyder. One of the advantages of this project, is that all the drilling, and everything is going to be done on the trigger, and nothing will be done to the autococker it's self. However, you have to sort of ruin a perfectly good timing rod And all that you will have to do to make the trigger work again on a spyder is to replace the "raise".



Step one,a autococker body has a flat area where the trigger goes on to. there is a flat area where the "raise" is on, i have done my measuring, and i found that you could simply cut along that flat area on the sides simply by grinding them down. this would make it fit on to the autococker body.


Step2, the spyder handles screw holes do match up almost perfectly with those of a autococker handle. Because of this, you have to find a drill bit that fits into the screw hole, then you have to "extend" the hole perfectly twords the front or back end of the trigger. ( i don't remember which direction)


step 3 this is where the instructions do begin to get hard to explain. on the right side of the trigger, you have to drill a hole that does go perfectly under where the raise is, but that does not touch the spring. Again you must "extend" the hole downward, but must do it at a slight curve. While doing this, be certain the hole is atleast big enough to fit a timing rod into. Or somthing of the same diamiter and circumference.


step 4 for this step, you need about 1 foot worth of some sort of strong metal, by the way, make it the same diameter and circumference of a timing rod. with the hole you have made in the trigger, you will be able to fit one end of the "strong metal" into the hole, if it does fit into the hole, put one end under the"raise" to make sure you can.


step 5 depending on the distance the shaft has to move inside the three way, you can do one of two things, but both ways you will have to bend the timing rod at a 90 degree angle, from here, you can either have it go strait from the trigger to the three way, but if that doesn't work, with the 1 you must face the rest of the metal twords the top left corner of the gun, next bedit at a angle twords the 3 way, you have to expirament with the distance, next, as it is heading twords the three way, stop about a inch from it. Next, unfortunitaly, you must ruin a timing rod. Next, by melting down the metals partialy, you must make a sort of hinge for the timing rod and the legth of metal that came from the trigger.

However, there is a problem, a autococker shaft must move forward to shoot, not backwards, well, to this, all you would have to do is change around some of the hoses in the front block so the piston's hoses are in reverse.



Again, i am only asking if this would work if you have a question, post it.

Last edited by autococker_child99; 06-26-2008 at 10:39 AM..
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