Paintball

[Railgun]

1. I have recently bought a 68 automag. i enjoy it, but there is one thing that completely annoys me when i am playing, partly because it makes the gun side heavy. So, i thought i should get a ule body. But i really like the barrel that i have on it at the moment. It is a old j&j barrel, and i like it because it is extremely short but makes the gun shoot amazing. So i thought mabey i should just have some custom work done to make it in a way a center feed. I would saw off the feed neck at the angle it allready is at. Then from there i would use some metal to extend off that just to the point where i would be able to put on a adjustable feed neck of somesort. WHAT IS THE BEST SOLUTION TO THIS PROBLEM? AND IF I DID GET CUSTOM WORK, HOW MUCH WOULD IT COST?

The bodies on those old Automags are stainless steel. They can be silver soldered but it's probably not something you want to do as a first time project. No idea on cost. You'd need to get some quotes


2. What is a good barrel system for the price? if you could name things under the hundreds to me, that would be great. I am specificaly trying to find a cheap 2-pc. system. But other things will be good too.

For what gun? If it's for the A5 I'd haunt some Tippmann forums for the answer.

3. What is the best paint for the cheapest price?

Don't go cheap on paint. But you don't need the highest prices stuff either. Try to get fresh made solid mid priced brand name stuff so it shoots the most accurately. Old stock or cheap stuff shoots about like a boomerang flies.

4.What is the point of an angled handle/ regulator? Is it just for looks?

Yes

5. What are the upgrades you would suggest i get for my tippmann a-5?

Check some Tippmann forums. Lots of mill sime stuff and a few internals that actually do something.

6. What is the best barrel for a tippmann a-5 for a cheap price?

See 5 above. But you can't go wrong with Lapco.

7.If i were to get a x-valve, ule body, intelliframe and all that other good stuff, Would i still have the same gun i started with? I mean, changing out all the key parts, how would it still be the same gun?

AUtomags are mostly about the rear valve and bolt. You'll certainly have a new gun that shoots different and feels different but at the core it'll still be "your" automag.

8. How the do you put pictures on here with out using a link? do you just copy and paste it? and if it makes a differance, it is a gimp file, not a jpg.

There's a "manage attachments" button when you use a regular reply rather than the "Quick reply". Do be kind and don't post images that are larger than 100K. Use a photo edit program to reduce the sizes.


9. Today i played a with my automag, When i used air it was getting o.k. range, however i only had about 1000 of 3000 psi left, By the time i decided to switch to co2, it was at about 400. when i screwed in a 20 oz. it shot with twice the range. Could this be because i was running low? And does co2 have a higher pressure than 3000 psi, If so do you think that could be what caused it? And if so, would it make a differance if i used my 4500 psi tank?

CO2 is more dense so when you push it through at the same pressure as air it has more power to it. You need to reduce the dump chamber pressure by screwing out the adjuster on the rear of the valve body.


10. will a force feed hopper make a mag chop more often?

No..... why would it? The idea of force feeding is to cram the balls into the breech to avoid them being chopped. But if you have the force pressure up to high it may bust the balls by seating them too hard.

11. if i have a intelliframe , x-valve, and say a lvl 10, how fast will
you be able to shoot the automag? on say a classic automag body if it makes a differance.

It's still mechanical. There's some reactive component to the X valve but you still need to pull the trigger. RT valves can be set up to "stutter" with just the right finger pressure and depending on how you hold it. At that point it sounds like a ramped tourney electro.

And here is a pic. that makes shows you what i want to do to my auto mag.

Don't do it unless you now how to finish the project. It's stainless steel and it requires special brazing practices and skills.

From one of your more recent questions Noxx is solid. He's been doing business around here for a while now. Use the search function to check the feedback forum.

That's all for now!

PHEW!

And yes, good spelling and grammar and taking the time to type with proper sentance structure counts for a lot. It also shows that you care enough to respect the people you're asking for answers.

[autococker_child99]

I honestly do not want to have to do any body work that i cannot go back on doing. (it could decrease the value if i try to sell it) so i guess the best thing for me to do is just leave it how it is or to buy a new body.

[autococker_child99]

If i am going to get a new body, i am probobly going to get a ule body, but it uses autococker thread, and i love the twist lock barrel i have now.

For what gun? If it's for the A5 I'd haunt some Tippmann forums for the answer.

I am sort of just looking for a suggested barrel, when i saw you would have to spend arround $200 just to get everything you need for a freak barrel, i knew there had to be somthing as good for alot less.

Don't go cheap on paint. But you don't need the highest prices stuff either. Try to get fresh made solid mid priced brand name stuff so it shoots the most accurately. Old stock or cheap stuff shoots about like a boomerang flies.

I was wondering if you could suggest( give me the name of) a good middle class paint, or one that you perfer, that is the whole point of this thread, looking for suggestions.

It's still mechanical. There's some reactive component to the X valve but you still need to pull the trigger. RT valves can be set up to "stutter" with just the right finger pressure and depending on how you hold it. At that point it sounds like a ramped tourney electro.

What about on a 68 automag "clasic" valve? how fast could i get it to go? or more like how fast could i get this gun to go?
Summer Gun Sale - Classic Automag

I plan on buying it soon, so i might sell my 68 automag.

[ta2maki]

Originally Posted by autococker_child99

I was wondering if you could suggest( give me the name of) a good middle class paint, or one that you perfer, that is the whole point of this thread, looking for suggestions.

He is suggesting that when you go into your local store(not walmart) ask what paint they just got in and get the ones that are about middle of the price range, around here its about $40. When I go to the paintball store, I'll ask the guy what paint has been shooting good or what paint has a big bore, etc. Same brands can and do change from batch to batch and as they get older.

If you play semi, paintballs are a lot like milk; as long as it is fresh, it doesn't really matter what the name on the package is.


BTW how old are you? You seem to have the mindset of a 14 year old.

[paintballer4ya]

ok the best paint i have found for the cheapest price would be impacts 40 dollars for 2000 paintballs also for the tippmann a-5 upgrades i would get the cyclone upgrades from tech t as for the best barrel for it is what you like some people like the j&j barrel as to some people like the flatline thats really up to you