Paintball

[Stainlessbutcher]

This one is a bit trickier perhaps. I've got an old sniper that uses the huge square back block and non adjustable cocking rod. Much like my previous issue, this gun cocks before the bolt clears the breech sufficiently to allow a ball to drop. A little extra nudge with the pump clears the breech, but I don't like that. This is not my gun, but a friend's and he's never played a lot of pump type play. I don't want him to have issues with paint pinching in his initial "getting to know your gun" phase.

B.

[thumper]

unscrewing the back block a turn or two may help it not feel so tight --

also: I know a lot of the old unregged snipers pumped like crap due (to me) due to the monster rear springs needed to open the valve at 800+psi

push comes to shove, a lot of hammers are different thicknesses from the front face to the point where the cocking rod screws in. swapping out the existing hammer with a "thicker" hammer would adjust the length of the cocking rod the hard way.

and if you get fed up completely, trimming the face of the bolt 1/8" is doable - ghetto as hell, but doable.

[Stainlessbutcher]

Thanks thumper...This one has a WGP reg on it, so the pump stroke isn't that tough, it's just the clearance problem in the breech. I'll work with the block a bit, but the further the block is moved back, the sooner it will catch the hammer to cock...so I don't see it being much of a change.

B.

Originally Posted by thumper

unscrewing the back block a turn or two may help it not feel so tight --

also: I know a lot of the old unregged snipers pumped like crap due (to me) due to the monster rear springs needed to open the valve at 800+psi

push comes to shove, a lot of hammers are different thicknesses from the front face to the point where the cocking rod screws in. swapping out the existing hammer with a "thicker" hammer would adjust the length of the cocking rod the hard way.

and if you get fed up completely, trimming the face of the bolt 1/8" is doable - ghetto as hell, but doable.

[thumper]

Originally Posted by Stainlessbutcher

...but the further the block is moved back, the sooner it will catch the hammer to cock...so I don't see it being much of a change.

B.

sometimes the pump return spring is mashed too much and it feels like the cocking rod is doing the fighting. lengthening the pump rod just a hair is a quick check for this. I would think the two turns back trick would not effect when the cocking rod catches the sear.

think thicker hammer...

[Crash]

Butch,
It sounds as if the cocking rod is too short. If it has a threaded knob on the end you can back it out and re-tighten the set screw or if it is a one piece put a thinner bumper on it between the knob and back block.

[thumper]

Originally Posted by Crash

Butch,
It sounds as if the cocking rod is too short. If it has a threaded knob on the end you can back it out and re-tighten the set screw or if it is a one piece put a thinner bumper on it between the knob and back block.

I'm pretty sure on the sniper 1 styled cocking rods the head of the cocking rod is fixed in place.

[Stainlessbutcher]

Yes, it has a fixed nut cocking rod. If I had a spare adjustable cocking rod, I'd change out his back block and put an adjustable on it. I'll dink around with it some more...something might come to me.

B.