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Old 01-12-2007, 01:58 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Cocker slider on a Sherridan LB

I have been tinkering with an old Sherridan LB pump for a bit now. I added a levocity adjuster, drilled and tapped for a 1/8 air fitting, but have been having issues with getting a slider to work correctly.

I picked up an adaptor plate from someone here, but it didnt work. The sear was too far from the lug to catch it. Since it was one of the newer composite frames, I just put the dremel to it. After much trial and error, I finally seemed to get it to work.

Then, as im trying it out over the chrony, the damn plasitc frame just cracked right in two. :-(

How much effort and what would exactly need to be done to a metal slider to get it to work? IS there a difference in the pre and post 2k frame internals.
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Old 01-12-2007, 02:03 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The height of the sear can vary wildly between frame setups. I believe that if you put a longer/stronger sear spring in, it can push it up to a usable level.
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Old 01-12-2007, 02:08 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by russc View Post
The height of the sear can vary wildly between frame setups. I believe that if you put a longer/stronger sear spring in, it can push it up to a usable level.
Hmmmm in my panic I never thought of that. Thank god for people who think clearly. :-)

Anything else I need to know?

Thanks again....
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Old 01-12-2007, 02:10 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Who did you pick up the adaptor from? I'm going to be needing somthing similar soon for one of my projects (sorry if this is a bit off-topic).

I would expect the adaptor to have been designed for a slightly diffrent cocker frame. That may have been the original problem.

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Old 01-12-2007, 02:27 PM   #5 (permalink)
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shaving the trigger plate is required. to get the sear up. i have yet to find a slider frame that works right with or with out the adapter plate. with out the adapter plate they do catch but not for long. Cause it sits right on the tip of the sear.

to adjust the sear you need to pull the trigger plate out. and file were the sear rides on it. this brings the sear up.
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Old 01-12-2007, 03:01 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rainman229 View Post
shaving the trigger plate is required. to get the sear up. i have yet to find a slider frame that works right with or with out the adapter plate. with out the adapter plate they do catch but not for long. Cause it sits right on the tip of the sear.

to adjust the sear you need to pull the trigger plate out. and file were the sear rides on it. this brings the sear up.

File the plate? Gotcha I think. Im sure I will get it when its in front of me :-)
Thanks :-)
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Old 01-12-2007, 07:56 PM   #7 (permalink)
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two things to consider:

assuming the adapter plate was made correctly, then the total thickness of the plate and the wall thickness of the brass will actually be slightly less than the thickness of the cocker body, and the sear should catch fine. many times however, the roll pin lug in the sheridan hammer is so slight above the edge of the hammer that the profile of the cocker sear has a hard time catching, and then it rounds off and it will not catch. to cure this, file/dremel the top edge of the sear to be vertical on the back edge where it catches tha hammer lug.

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Old 01-12-2007, 10:23 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigEvil View Post
Hmmmm in my panic I never thought of that. Thank god for people who think clearly. :-)

Anything else I need to know?

Thanks again....

If it turns out that it's close and a little work brings up the sear then you may need to alter the angle of the sear lip. But keep in mind that it travels in an arc and you want the back angle to be maybe 15 to 20 degrees "steeper" than the arc of the travel for a safe but decently light trigger pull. The point being that it doesn't need to have a vertical face.

You may need to gring away at the sear or the slider to get it high enough but if you take the parts out and study how they work and try to keep the angles all more or less consistent you can redo things with success.
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