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Old 01-17-2007, 01:40 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by sdawg View Post
Also, there seems to be a small hole in the threads, and it is filled with what appears to be red-loctite. I believe I remember reading that the hold is there for a reason and that getting loctite in there is bad...?
Yeah, that hole is to release gas pressure in case the tank unthreads from the valve, instead of the valve unthreading from the gun. That being clogged is exactly why you shouldn't use loc-tite.

I trust myself alot more than most "Airsmiths" one would find at a p-ball shop.
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Tournament play is about the worst spectator sport out there. I would rather watch Synchronized Dungeons & Dragons.


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Old 01-17-2007, 02:02 PM   #12 (permalink)
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That being clogged is exactly why you shouldn't use loc-tite. ... I trust myself alot more than most "Airsmiths" one would find at a p-ball shop.
I guess my pin valve is now bolloxed and I need to replace it now? or is there a chance it came from the factory like that?

That would explain my original question, why the CO2 was venting out the pin. The guy at the shop must have overfilled it and the pressure-release hole (or whatever it's called) was clogged, so it vented from the pin.
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Old 01-17-2007, 02:13 PM   #13 (permalink)
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No, the "pressure release hole" is only a safety measure in case the tank and tank valve unscrew from each other. Normally its blocked anyway, but in the off chance that the tank unscrews from the tank valve, the pressure will release before the tank unthreads so it wont shoot off and kill someone.

You should be able to clear the red loctite out. Coulda been a bit of dried loctite that caused your valve leak. If you clean it up and put it back together it might not leak anymore.

Also, I use loctite when I put a tank back together, I just use VERY little right at the top of the threads. But torque, not loctite, should keep the valve from separating from the tank.
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Tournament play is about the worst spectator sport out there. I would rather watch Synchronized Dungeons & Dragons.


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Old 01-17-2007, 04:11 PM   #14 (permalink)
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if you can remove the valve assembly from the body, do so. If it can't go further, then screw back on and off and on and off until you do get it off.
then remove the siphon tube and the spring, pin, and seal should fall out. check the seal for dammage, debris, etc. Make sure someone did not put a tiny oring on there, but it has a flaten dounut looking seal. I have seen this done before, it works enough to get it home, lol.
good luck,
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Old 01-21-2007, 12:33 AM   #15 (permalink)
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the thrilling conclusion...

took the bottle to another shop for them to look at. They got the valve off, but it was stripped at the very end, and was almost impossible to get off. The guy at this shop thought that they put the compression fitting in the pin valve back together wrong, which was why I was hearing the pieces rattling around. I don't want to mess around with CO2 tank with a faulty valve, so I just had him junk the whole thing and am switching to 100% HPA

next time, I'm just going to install the anti-siphon myself.
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