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Old 02-08-2007, 08:24 PM   #11 (permalink)
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You might want to post over on the Tinker's Guild (if you haven't already). I know plenty of folks there bought some of those bodies and built perfectly functional guns from them. Actually the first run of "Fastback" bodies were made from those, IIRC. Maybe there's one particular valve that works better in there than the others.

I know I had problems getting the valve to line up with the set screw, but once it was in there, it worked fine. I ran it for a few months (before getting the body anodized) with a Palmer LT valve in there and never had any leakage issues. I think I still have that valve around if you want to try it in there. It was otherwise employed when I got the anodizing done, so I put a stock valve in there since I had a bunch of them at the time.

-Chad
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Old 02-08-2007, 08:34 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I'm gonna try using a spacer between the jam nut and body and see how that works. If that doesn't work I'll try to find a used or new LT valve and hopefully that'll solve my problem and I can get both cockers re-assembled, timed and firing again lol.
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Old 03-28-2007, 03:36 PM   #13 (permalink)
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an update since I finally got a chance to work on the gun again, the spacer didn't work, but I soaked it and another leaky autococker in a 50/50 rubbing alcohol/water mixture and was shocked by how much dirt came out of each one. That's probably what's causing my gun to not seal, right there.
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Old 03-28-2007, 03:48 PM   #14 (permalink)
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an update since I finally got a chance to work on the gun again, the spacer didn't work, but I soaked it and another leaky autococker in a 50/50 rubbing alcohol/water mixture and was shocked by how much dirt came out of each one. That's probably what's causing my gun to not seal, right there.
Dirt? I know the parts that I had anodized came back wreaking of smoke, so I'm sure some of what came off is tar (though I remember washing them up pretty thoroughly with hot soapy water - inside & out).
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Old 03-28-2007, 03:50 PM   #15 (permalink)
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whatever it was, it sure dirtied up the alcohol. It was surprisingly nasty.
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Old 03-28-2007, 04:29 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Sucess! Threw a 20 oz tank I had lying around (Mainly because I didn't feel like looking for my nitro bottle) after a little tinkering and application of 3 in one oil, the green autococker finally holds air! The only issue is I removed the grip frame screws so many times since I started trying to get it to hold air that they're stripped and I'll have to hit the hardware store on Friday so it's ready to go at Adventure Games's opening day Saturday.
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Old 03-28-2007, 05:37 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Sucess! Threw a 20 oz tank I had lying around (Mainly because I didn't feel like looking for my nitro bottle) after a little tinkering and application of 3 in one oil, the green autococker finally holds air! The only issue is I removed the grip frame screws so many times since I started trying to get it to hold air that they're stripped and I'll have to hit the hardware store on Friday so it's ready to go at Adventure Games's opening day Saturday.

STOP!

3 in 1 = bad for orings over time. I used to use it all the time on my mag(worked great) and after a year or two i was replacing orings left and right. Found out there is a component in 3 in 1 that isnt' super oring friendly over long periods of time. I switched to some good air tool oil and haven't had any issues with that. Just an FYI. That was about 5 years ago though, I don't know if they've changed their formula since.
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Old 03-28-2007, 06:05 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Well, IIRC, Bud Orr is on record in saying that 3 in one is just fine, that's why I went with it.
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Old 03-28-2007, 11:20 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Well, IIRC, Bud Orr is on record in saying that 3 in one is just fine, that's why I went with it.

And you'd listen to the guy that claims he inventing Autococking guns....lol

Seriously though Murph,Paintball gun oil or Dow 33 only on those.I've found Dow 33 works great on most guns.
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