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Old 06-20-2012, 11:26 AM   #11 (permalink)
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well I received the other rainmaker now, lil dusty but looks good! Time to tear it up and junk a lot of the factory stuff, never new they came with QEVs. Still not a hundred percent sure on the trapped o-ring idea Murph has, never messed with Ions, EGOs, Angels, and the like but since I no longer have access to a well stocked machine shop I doubt if I can make anything close to that real soon... really wanna ditch the whole hammer deal so I can shave some weight and height off the gun some day when Im
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Old 06-21-2012, 07:05 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I don't think my idea would shave off all that much height, you still need to acommodate the valve body. I was thinking as more a retrofit kit that goes right in the portion of the lower tube that accepts the ram/hammer assembly from the factory.
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Old 06-21-2012, 10:52 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I just might have to cut a lower receiver in half to get better measurements. What I came up with would need to.be exact. Or it would mean hours of trail and error to get the parts the right size. Good thing I still have a draw full of bodies. Lol.
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Old 06-23-2012, 11:15 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I thought if you could ditch the hammer and sear thus no longer needing the trip pin in the lower t-slot you could shave most of it away but then the grip frame would become real tricky to reattatch so no dice there. Height isnt all that big of an issue any way. If you want Rainman I have a butchered lower that someone drilled through the pin area I would be happy to trade you for one that was unmolested plus some $$. I specd out my old ANS cocker with bore mics, calipers, and a height gage and made a clone body one time but it was a bear! I also got paid to do it.... Some kinda new set up in the lower would be super slick!
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Old 07-02-2012, 06:04 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Electro magnet??

what about using a small electro mag to strike the valve open and keep the stock valve. found a few but havnt got dimensions yet to see if they would work. This could make it easier to use an aftermarket/alternative frame/board set up as well. Found a few but have no idea if they would have the punch required to do the job yet......
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Old 07-04-2012, 11:54 PM   #16 (permalink)
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The reason for my idea is that it in theory requires only one solenoid and can be operated with a far wider range of electronics. My idea actually does keep the stock valve, there's just a piston in the back of the spool that pops the valve open once the bolt has reached the fully forward position.
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