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Old 02-22-2013, 09:37 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Raptor questions

First, how do I remove the bolt? I've gotten everything disassembled but I can't get the bolt out of the body.

Second, mine is missing a valve stem, can i drill it out to accept cocker valve stems? or, alternatively, since i'm trying to make it a pump anyway, can i modify a cocker valve and valve stem to fit in there? The cocker valve fits, but leaked pretty awefully when i tried airing it up.
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Old 02-22-2013, 09:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
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1) The mainspring guide has a threaded end. This is to thread into the link pin that connects the bolt to the hammer. Look at the hole on top of the gun with it uncocked and you'll see the threads of the link pin. Use the mainspring guide to pull it out of the top.

2) A cocker valve should drop right in with no modifications; I've done it before. Check your o-rings.
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Old 02-24-2013, 06:15 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I can see the threads in the bolt, but my spring guide isn't threaded, and also my link pin isn't threaded. My link pin just pops out of the top hole with pressure from the bottom of the hammer after removing the grip frame and charging handle. I have been able to completely disassemble the marker EXCEPT for removing the bolt, which always sticks when i try and push it forward or backward out of the body.

Also, my cocker valve leaked heavily when installed out of the hammer slot on the bottom tube. What am I doing wrong installing the cocker valve?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jebus View Post
Quote:
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I gave into the rainbow side long ago...
I laughed beer out of my nose upon realizing you are a gay boy with a gun with that comment. Thanks, you owe me some beer.
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Russian Legion Shocker frame/snatch/asa, SFT internals, Air tank, Freak tip
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:54 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Update: I installed a different cocker valve, and the new one doesn't leak. (YAY!)

Here is the weird thing though: The marker still re-cocks itself. Shouldn't a cocker valve, since it doesn't have the little vent like the Raptor valve has, not be able to blow the hammer back into the cocked position?

My friend who has previously done two Raptor pump-conversions said all he did was block the vent hole and that stopped it from re-cocking. Why when I install a Cocker valve that has no vent hole would the system still reset? Should I remove the hammer o-ring?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jebus View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyler_vanvoorthuijse View Post
I gave into the rainbow side long ago...
I laughed beer out of my nose upon realizing you are a gay boy with a gun with that comment. Thanks, you owe me some beer.
Feedback

Selling these:
PACS Works Cocker
Russian Legion Shocker frame/snatch/asa, SFT internals, Air tank, Freak tip
Brass Abomination
Mag Parts!
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:07 PM   #5 (permalink)
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id like to see picures of this, raptor was my first marker ever
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:13 PM   #6 (permalink)
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You can drill a hole behind the valve in the bottom of the body to vent the blowback gases that are leaking through. You could also remove the hammer o-ring. Since it'll be a pump it shouldn't scratch the inside of the body up too bad, and even if it does, no big deal.
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:13 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I have a nice one I will be selling if you want relive some of your youth pm me .
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:16 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I think i'll go w/ the hole in the lowers cause I can always tap/plug it to restore it to blowback later. Thanks for the tip.

Do you know if Raptor barres are large enough to be freak bored?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jebus View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyler_vanvoorthuijse View Post
I gave into the rainbow side long ago...
I laughed beer out of my nose upon realizing you are a gay boy with a gun with that comment. Thanks, you owe me some beer.
Feedback

Selling these:
PACS Works Cocker
Russian Legion Shocker frame/snatch/asa, SFT internals, Air tank, Freak tip
Brass Abomination
Mag Parts!
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