I am a very happy Stingray owner! Look what I bought! - Page 2

ponytail · 05-02-2008, 10:15 AM

Instead of loc-tite on the cocking screw, you can also use a little teflon tape. That's worked for me for years.

Oh, here's a helpful post from the Internet Archive Waybacks Machine's Archive on STING:

STING 2.0

"Lose your cocking screw? You can order a new one from Brass Eagle for $1, but you'll have to wait for it. It's kind of an odd size, 12-28, so you may have trouble finding a replacement. As a temporary fix, you can use a 5mm (1.25 pitch) x 20mm machine screw. It's not an exact match, but it's fairly close. I used a socket (Allen) head screw, and got a plastic knurled cap for it which presses onto the head (bottom screw). You could also use a regular screw with a brass thumbnut (top screw). A word of warning though - you'll need some sort of sleeve or spacer (middle) to make sure the screw doesn't go into the hammer too far. (Mine originally did, and kept catching on the hammer spring!) I got an aluminum spacer, 3/16" ID x 3/4" long, and cut 1/8" off the bottom. Make sure the spacer is thin enough to fit in the slot on the side of the 'Ray that it needs to slide in to cycle. Also, I'd put a drop of Loctite on the screw threads to keep it from coming loose. (You could put Loctite on your stock screw and eliminate this problem altogether!)"

melkson · 05-04-2008, 01:15 PM

i'd be more than happy to trade you a great condition ray 2 body plus something extra for that complete ray 1 body + shroud.

05-02-2008, 10:15 AM	#11 (permalink)
ponytail Active Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: B/CS, TX Posts: 156	Instead of loc-tite on the cocking screw, you can also use a little teflon tape. That's worked for me for years. Oh, here's a helpful post from the Internet Archive Waybacks Machine's Archive on STING: STING 2.0 "Lose your cocking screw? You can order a new one from Brass Eagle for $1, but you'll have to wait for it. It's kind of an odd size, 12-28, so you may have trouble finding a replacement. As a temporary fix, you can use a 5mm (1.25 pitch) x 20mm machine screw. It's not an exact match, but it's fairly close. I used a socket (Allen) head screw, and got a plastic knurled cap for it which presses onto the head (bottom screw). You could also use a regular screw with a brass thumbnut (top screw). A word of warning though - you'll need some sort of sleeve or spacer (middle) to make sure the screw doesn't go into the hammer too far. (Mine originally did, and kept catching on the hammer spring!) I got an aluminum spacer, 3/16" ID x 3/4" long, and cut 1/8" off the bottom. Make sure the spacer is thin enough to fit in the slot on the side of the 'Ray that it needs to slide in to cycle. Also, I'd put a drop of Loctite on the screw threads to keep it from coming loose. (You could put Loctite on your stock screw and eliminate this problem altogether!)" __________________ Need a Team banner? What about custom lettering on any surface? Screenprinting for your jerseys or team shirts? We do it all - PM me for a quote. My feedback - http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/f...-feedback.html Long hair will make thee look dreadfully to thine enemies, and manly to thy friends: it is, in peace, an ornament; in war, a strong helmet; it... deadens the leaden thump of a bullet: in winter, it is a warm nightcap; in summer, a cooling fan of feathers. - Thomas Dekker, The Gulls Hornbook, 1609

05-04-2008, 01:15 PM	#12 (permalink)
melkson Active Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Northern Colorado Posts: 455	i'd be more than happy to trade you a great condition ray 2 body plus something extra for that complete ray 1 body + shroud. __________________ Raptor Guru Merchant marine salvage engineer, Preemptive salvage specialist

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