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|06-14-2009, 05:48 PM||#1 (permalink)|
Join Date: Sep 2008
Stingray Disassembly Guide (56k beware)
Model T of the Semis
When BE was Cool
Brass Eagle's Stingray was one of the first semi-auto paintguns both cheap and reliable enough for the weekend rec player, helping to expand the game. Made mostly of molded plastic, it eliminated the need for an expensive milled body by use of its self-contained valvetrain.
This is 072997, a Stingray II (?)
Before disassembly, empty the hopper. Unscrew the CO2 tank until it starts hissing, then dry-fire in a safe direction while continuing to unscrew the tank until the bolt flops forward. Dry-fire either on the field, at the range, or with a barrel sock on. As always, make sure the breech is clear.
The only tool needed is a 5/32 allen wrench, used for the velocity adjuster. Use it to push out this pin.
Now use the same allen wrench or the pin to remove this one, which holds in the valvetrain. If it's hard to push out, turn the velocity adjuster screw (just ahead of the pin) a few turns in or out.
Unscrew the cocking handle, swing down the gripframe and slide everything out the back. You'll end up with this. Make sure not to lose the two pins holding on the ASA.
Remove these two pins.
Hold the gas tube and hammer tube firmly in one hand, and the ASA (the "donkey") in the other. Pull it straight apart. Then pull the gas tube out of the valve's gas tube adapter thing up front- the gas tube ends are identical.
Put the cocking handle back on, and brace the rear end of the hammer tube against your hand. Pull back against the drive spring until the bumper/spring guide pin can't go back any further. Then hold the hammer tube in the other hand with the back end a little bit away from your pulling hand. Continue to pull the cocking handle back and the drive spring should pop right out.
Pull the rear end of the linkage arm out of its slot in the hammer, and slide the front bolt forward and off the powertube.
The barrel is held on by two pins, which sit in a groove on the barrel.
It should look like this. The front bolt is attached to the linkage arm by a roll pin, just like the valve is attached to the hammer tube, the detent ball plate to the body and the trigger parts to the frame.
Reassembly is the reverse. Keep in mind that three of the plastic pins are identical (2x barrel, 1 rear body pin) and the front body/frame pin is shorter. Also, the spring guide pin has a bumper which fits over it. It's visible in the above picture- the black disc behind the spring. The pin that holds the internals in has a groove around the middle. It's also not necessary to remove the front body/frame pin or the barrel for disassembly, as you can clean the barrel from the breech.
Velocity adjuster: 5/32 hex
Alive since you began playing.
"But gun control isn't about guns, its about control."
Last edited by Phantom63; 06-16-2009 at 12:16 AM.
|06-15-2009, 06:33 PM||#5 (permalink)|
Stingrays are fun to mess with. Last time I was at Sac Pump Day, Pete (wharfrat) offered me a box of like 10 of them for 5 bucks. I declined knowing I already don't have enough time to get stuff done at home, not to mention butchering me some Rays.
Too bad at PBN they'll just say 'stingrays suck n00b lolz'
|07-25-2009, 09:45 AM||#6 (permalink)|
someone should mention that they love Automatic Transmission Fluid for lubrication. I used my stingray for years and still wonder why I ever got rid of it.
|07-25-2009, 11:35 AM||#7 (permalink)|
Nice job. If I ever drag my ray out and take her apart I'll have to get pictures of the valve assembly and the difference between the original and second gen valve parts.
Brings back memories. I remember using a penny behind the donkey to up the FPS until I got a new spring. And that they run fine on liquid CO2. I ran mine off a siphon tank for a while and it was a loud snow machine but shot well.
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