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Old 06-19-2013, 10:31 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Hello, I am new to MCB and Phantoms so please forgive me for my lack of knowledge. I recently purchased a used Phantom, it seems to work just fine but i have a few questions. 1. Is pumping the marker with no air repeaditly bad for the marker? 2. Without the marker aired up their is a sound of something being able to move back and forth which I think is normal with nelsons but i am not sure. 3. When the bolt/pump is in the forward position if it has some force put into it, it seems to bond or have resistance which i think is the oring on the bolt but i am not sure.
Thanks for your help
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Old 06-19-2013, 10:57 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I don't think it's bad to pump without air but I can't say its good.

As for the innards moving around its normal. When not aired up and cocked the bolt and hammer are in a neutral position with a spring loosely between them.

I'm not sure i understand #3
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Old 06-19-2013, 11:02 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by WalkOnPro View Post
Hello, I am new to MCB and Phantoms so please forgive me for my lack of knowledge. I recently purchased a used Phantom, it seems to work just fine but i have a few questions.
Welcome to the club!

Quote:
1. Is pumping the marker with no air repeaditly bad for the marker?
As long as you don't overdo it (like pulling the pump handle back too far or in a jarring manner), no.

Quote:
2. Without the marker aired up their is a sound of something being able to move back and forth which I think is normal with nelsons but i am not sure.
You're mostly likely hearing the hammer moving about a bit, which is perfectly normal.

Quote:
3. When the bolt/pump is in the forward position if it has some force put into it, it seems to bond or have resistance which i think is the oring on the bolt but i am not sure.
It could be the bolt o-ring sticking a bit. I'd make sure that the o-ring groove, the o-ring itself and the front tip of the bolt are completely clean. Also check the barrel for any kind of gunk. Clean everything and re-assemble. If it still sticks, try a smaller/thinner o-ring. DO NOT put oil on it! Yes, that may eliminate the sticking, but will also lead to accuracy issues as the oil transfers to the breech and barrel.

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Thanks for your help
No problem!
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Old 06-20-2013, 02:36 AM   #4 (permalink)
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DO NOT put oil on it!
Ah, I been doing maintenance wrong. No wonder I felt my game improved after i got lazy and stopped cleaning everytime i played.

Is there any part of the marker that should be oiled at all?
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Old 06-20-2013, 05:41 AM   #5 (permalink)
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nope no oil is ever required some people say you can use it but ive been running my mine dry for a year with no issues
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Old 06-20-2013, 10:54 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Wycke View Post
Welcome to the club!



As long as you don't overdo it (like pulling the pump handle back too far or in a jarring manner), no.



You're mostly likely hearing the hammer moving about a bit, which is perfectly normal.



It could be the bolt o-ring sticking a bit. I'd make sure that the o-ring groove, the o-ring itself and the front tip of the bolt are completely clean. Also check the barrel for any kind of gunk. Clean everything and re-assemble. If it still sticks, try a smaller/thinner o-ring. DO NOT put oil on it! Yes, that may eliminate the sticking, but will also lead to accuracy issues as the oil transfers to the breech and barrel.



No problem!
Uh i accidently put oil on it already....im so dumb. Should i just do my best to wipe it off?
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Old 06-20-2013, 10:59 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Just clean it.

A drop on the 12ie before you screw it in is all i do.
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Old 06-20-2013, 12:20 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by m1yeh View Post
Ah, I been doing maintenance wrong. No wonder I felt my game improved after i got lazy and stopped cleaning everytime i played.

Is there any part of the marker that should be oiled at all?
I meant specifically on the bolt & o-ring. I put one drop on the hammer, then wipe most of it off, and one drop in the ASA before screwing in the tank.
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Old 06-20-2013, 01:29 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Welcome to the wonderful world of Phantoms.

Repeated pumping/dry firing of any gun is not recommended. All that is being accomplished is creating unnecessary wear on the gun and its components.

Proper maintenance of the Phantom DOES include using a small amount of oil/lube on the internals, which is why they come pre-lubed from CCI in the first place. However, you do need to use the correct lube, as certain lubricants can deteriorate the rubber in o-rings, and some seals. Look for lube/oil that was formulated specifically for paintball/air guns, like the kind Palmer's Pursuit Shop sells (among many others).

By not using oil/lube, you are only increasing the amount of wear and tear on the bolt/hammer (premature wear of the factory CCI coating), as well as potentially scratching up the inside the breech - which is obviously not a good idea. Lack of oil also promotes rusting issues, specifically on the threads inside the bolt where the TPC threads in.

Think about it. Let's say you get dirt or debris inside the breech during game play, and don't notice it. What will cause more damage - dirt in a dry breech, or lubricated breech? Obviously, neither is good, but a lubed breech won't get as marred or scratched as a dry breech.

And there is no need to pre-oil the tips of 12-grams before use. Every 12-gram cartridge that is not considered "food grade" come with a tiny amount of oil already added to the CO2 content by the manufacturer. Lelands are the only cartridge I know of that are sold as "food grade". But either way - adding oil to the tip of the cartridge, or relying on the trace amount of oil added to a 12-gram fill will only provide a marginal benefit to the internals of the valve body (cup seal, valve spring, etc.). It does next to nothing as far as keeping your bolt and hammer properly lubed.

The best way to lube your internals is to put one or two drops inside the back of the breech before inserting your internals. Take your finger and wipe the oil as far as you can inside the breech. Then, put a small drop of oil on your finger and wipe it over your hammer and bolt. Your internals and breech should have an oily sheen on them, not be dripping. If you used more than 3 drops of oil, you used too much. Periodic (annual) maintenance includes removing your TPC, and checking the threads on both the TPC and inside the bolt for rust. A drop of oil to the threads inside your bolt every year or two will keep them rust free.

Bottom line: keeping your bolt and hammer lubed will extend the life of the factory hard coating. In 28 years of game play, I have never experienced any accuracy issues or performance problems by having a properly lubed gun.
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Last edited by Slim; 06-20-2013 at 02:57 PM.
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Old 06-20-2013, 08:53 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slim View Post
Welcome to the wonderful world of Phantoms.

Repeated pumping/dry firing of any gun is not recommended. All that is being accomplished is creating unnecessary wear on the gun and its components.

Proper maintenance of the Phantom DOES include using a small amount of oil/lube on the internals, which is why they come pre-lubed from CCI in the first place. However, you do need to use the correct lube, as certain lubricants can deteriorate the rubber in o-rings, and some seals. Look for lube/oil that was formulated specifically for paintball/air guns, like the kind Palmer's Pursuit Shop sells (among many others).

By not using oil/lube, you are only increasing the amount of wear and tear on the bolt/hammer (premature wear of the factory CCI coating), as well as potentially scratching up the inside the breech - which is obviously not a good idea. Lack of oil also promotes rusting issues, specifically on the threads inside the bolt where the TPC threads in.

Think about it. Let's say you get dirt or debris inside the breech during game play, and don't notice it. What will cause more damage - dirt in a dry breech, or lubricated breech? Obviously, neither is good, but a lubed breech won't get as marred or scratched as a dry breech.

And there is no need to pre-oil the tips of 12-grams before use. Every 12-gram cartridge that is not considered "food grade" come with a tiny amount of oil already added to the CO2 content by the manufacturer. Lelands are the only cartridge I know of that are sold as "food grade". But either way - adding oil to the tip of the cartridge, or relying on the trace amount of oil added to a 12-gram fill will only provide a marginal benefit to the internals of the valve body (cup seal, valve spring, etc.). It does next to nothing as far as keeping your bolt and hammer properly lubed.

The best way to lube your internals is to put one or two drops inside the back of the breech before inserting your internals. Take your finger and wipe the oil as far as you can inside the breech. Then, put a small drop of oil on your finger and wipe it over your hammer and bolt. Your internals and breech should have an oily sheen on them, not be dripping. If you used more than 3 drops of oil, you used too much. Periodic (annual) maintenance includes removing your TPC, and checking the threads on both the TPC and inside the bolt for rust. A drop of oil to the threads inside your bolt every year or two will keep them rust free.

Bottom line: keeping your bolt and hammer lubed will extend the life of the factory hard coating. In 28 years of game play, I have never experienced any accuracy issues or performance problems by having a properly lubed gun.
Thanks for the help! I have lubed the markers internals (all of them) is that bad to lube every piece? I tried my best to get all the oil not to be on the front bolt oring. Others have said not to lube the bolt but you say to lube it?
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