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Old 12-13-2011, 10:51 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Tips on changing CCM valve pin oring?

Hey guys,
I need to change the oring on my CCM valve pin, it's a little chewed up. If I remember the manual correctly, it's an 007/90. But does anyone have any tips for removing the shaft from the tophat part in order to get to the oring itself? I can't remove mine by hand and did'nt want to go further without asking. I believe they're loctited on?

Thanks!
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Old 12-13-2011, 11:28 PM   #2 (permalink)
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try pliers and leather straps or similar.
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mailmanmike Since Monday! That's more than 4 hours though, so according to those cialis ads I should see my doctor.
tlane77 I think for a non-chemical chubby it's 6 hours before its time to see a doctor. So you should be good for another couple hours.
splattttttt I wasn't goin to google "chubbin" because I assumed it had to do with fat. The lard type, not the fun stuff. But what ever feelings Jeff's experiencing, then they must be of the fun like stuff...
tlane77 He's got a woody for your woods.
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Old 12-14-2011, 03:24 PM   #3 (permalink)
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it's usually a small dab of blue loc-tite on the cap if i remember right. if you're going to replace the o-ring anyway, you can always torch the aluminum cap a bit to heat it and break the loc-tite. either that or you can separate the stem and cap with a set of pliers, personally i use vice grips, they work well and don't usually leave huge scrapes or gouges if done right.
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Old 12-15-2011, 12:31 AM   #4 (permalink)
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like the pro saiz.
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THE-SHOOTIST Anyone chubbin' like me for this?
mailmanmike Since Monday! That's more than 4 hours though, so according to those cialis ads I should see my doctor.
tlane77 I think for a non-chemical chubby it's 6 hours before its time to see a doctor. So you should be good for another couple hours.
splattttttt I wasn't goin to google "chubbin" because I assumed it had to do with fat. The lard type, not the fun stuff. But what ever feelings Jeff's experiencing, then they must be of the fun like stuff...
tlane77 He's got a woody for your woods.
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Old 12-15-2011, 10:53 AM   #5 (permalink)
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you dont want to put any dings in the stainless shaft at all. Could cause major issues.
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Old 12-16-2011, 12:50 AM   #6 (permalink)
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like i said, as long as it's done right. if you have vice grips with narrow enough jaws you can grab it on the middle part of the stem (the thin part) and not worry about damaging anything. if you grab the fat part of the stem and put a groove in it be sure to use a fine single cut machinist file to get rid of any ridges that sit up that may scratch the inside of the valve body. on the cap you don't really have to worry about the exterior as it's not going to scratch anything on the valve body.
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Old 12-17-2011, 09:10 PM   #7 (permalink)
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1) Heat it up.
2) Use a scrap of leather or thick rubber and put it in a vice.
3) Chuck up the stem in a cordless drill and tighten it down.
4) Put it on low and reverse - and pull the trigger.
5) Profit.


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Old 01-16-2012, 10:30 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Woah, getting back to this a little late. Have'nt been receiving my email notifications from MCB for some reason.

Thanks for the suggestions, I will look them over and give them all a try.
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Old 01-17-2012, 12:00 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I used the 'cordless drill' trick the other day when putting in a AT coupler pin. Worked a charm.

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