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Old 09-08-2012, 11:14 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Origin's SR1 Build/Tips/Modifications

I will be updating the first page of this thread as i progress with testing and modifying it.

So far, all i have done was modify the buffer tube so i can insert a 10rnd tube into the stock. I found with my MOE stock, a speed cap on a 10rnd tube fit in very nicely, almost like they were made to do so. I am sure other stocks are very similar since the buffer tubes is the main reason behind it.

Here is a checklist of what you will need to build your SR1:

SR1
AR15 barrel nut
AR15 Delta ring assemble (for non free floating handguards)
Buffer Tube w/castle nut and retaining plate
Any stock that will fit your buffer tube
Hand grip
Fore grip
1/4 20 bolt to hold the hand grip on, a 1/2 to 3/4 inch length

You can use either free floating or 2 piece fore grips on the SR1. I picked up a full MOE furniture kit from DSGarms.com, they are now under $100 and come with everything you need aside from the barrel nut and delta ring. The bolt provided with AR grips will not work, at least not any i had to test, you will need what i listed above.

I picked up my Leland 12g's and First Strike rounds from Celanis Paintball Celanis Paintball

I will update with better pics when i get then. These were taken last night in my hobby room with w 100yr old light fixture haha.










I found that a 12g fit very nicely into the MOE hand grips storage compartment. If you wear gloves it would be hard to access but i do not wear gloves. A sizer shell for the SR1 will also fit in the grip with some foam to keep it from rattling and one will wedge into the vertical fore grip i added, it is also a MOE. I wedged a 12g into the vertical fore grip with a small rag to keep it in place and to help me be able to pull it out.

I drilled a 1/4" hole in my stocks end plate to allow access to the Velocity Adjuster. This marker still functions like a traditional Cocker platform we all know and love, it is just a very unique twist on it.

Last edited by crazyorigin; 09-12-2012 at 01:52 PM.
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Old 09-08-2012, 11:17 AM   #2 (permalink)
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This will be frequently updated.

Specs:

Overall length from barrel tip to buffer tube end is 30 1/4"
Overall length from barrel tip to body is 23 1/2"
Muzzle break threads- 7/8x20 .625 in length from tip.
Grip threads- 1/4x20
Barrel threading- Autococker trim .25 from breach side and bore to .885 @ .250 deep
Rail mounting holes- 1 inch spacing 10/32 threads.


SR1 modified barrel- left, standard Cocker barrel- Right

Last edited by crazyorigin; 09-19-2012 at 05:39 PM.
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Old 09-08-2012, 11:20 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Old 09-08-2012, 11:31 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I like what you did my friend, very neat and clean. Although I thought of using the buffer tube I didn't think about coming out the back, very smart.
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Old 09-08-2012, 11:55 AM   #5 (permalink)
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With the stock in a comfortable position the 10rnd tube (13 FS) is completely hidden btw. You can collapse it to grab the tube. The nice thing is if you push the tube in too far when you cock the marker it will locate the tube where it needs to be.
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Old 09-08-2012, 04:49 PM   #7 (permalink)
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A real ar handguard bolt is 1/4 28 x 1

Is the buffer tube mil spec or commercial?

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Old 09-08-2012, 10:16 PM   #8 (permalink)
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My tube is mil spec. The AR bolts for the grip wont work, the SR1 is threaded for 1/4-20.
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Old 09-09-2012, 08:43 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I love the butt stock tube idea. Someone quick create a spring loaded first strike adaptor or better yet a shell ejector!
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Old 09-10-2012, 12:47 PM   #10 (permalink)
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There is really only room for one shell to be held in the buffer tube. I was either going to do the 10rnd tube like i did or one shell held with an o ring but decided to do something with more ammo.
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