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Old 05-12-2013, 10:28 AM   #1 (permalink)
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T2 adjustment questions.

Picked up a new T2 a month or so ago. After putting 3-4 cases threw it. I'm having some minor issues. I'm sure is from my lack of knowlage on how to adjust the marker. I feel like something is out of timing. Or the spring that holds the pump arm forward needs to be adjusted or may have loosened up over time. New to pumps and mechanical markers.

For example this gap is created by the weight of just the pump handle. It will not fire unless I hold the pump handle forward. Could this be a luge adjustment issue? Could it just be dirty? What is the proper matinance procedure for the T2. I found a manual on line that has been very helpfull. But I just don't want to creat more issues with my lack of knowlage how it operates. Any good links to would be helpfull I like tinkering with my own stuff. Helps to know what your doing if and when you have issues at the field.

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Old 05-12-2013, 11:37 AM   #2 (permalink)
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From what you describe it sounds like your gun is working right.

The way that the CCM autotrigger works on the S6, S6.5, J2l, & T2 is it prevents the hammer from disengaging from the sear using a cam that is actuated by the position of the pump arm. It prevents you from pulling the trigger till the bolt is in the right position where the valve and bolt's ports line up.
Usually that means that the pump handle does have to be fully forwards to fire
A well timed autotrigger with fire with an 1/8" gap between the backblock and body.

The spring in the pump handle helps hold the pump handle forwards. What I have done on a few of my snipers is grab some springs from a hardware store and find the one that works the best for my tastes. CCM uses a really light spring in there to help make the pump stroke nice and light.

If you have any other questions, phone CCM and talk to Rod. He is great at answering any questions that you might have.
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Old 05-12-2013, 12:22 PM   #3 (permalink)
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What he said ^^ My T2 does the same thing with the bolt sliding back a bit from gravity if pointed up, doesn't cause any problems though. The AT cam timing actually keeps things real consistent.

I do like the idea of trying different return springs, think I'm gonna have to try that
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Old 05-12-2013, 12:25 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EgoPossum View Post
From what you describe it sounds like your gun is working right.

The way that the CCM autotrigger works on the S6, S6.5, J2l, & T2 is it prevents the hammer from disengaging from the sear using a cam that is actuated by the position of the pump arm. It prevents you from pulling the trigger till the bolt is in the right position where the valve and bolt's ports line up.
Usually that means that the pump handle does have to be fully forwards to fire
A well timed autotrigger with fire with an 1/8" gap between the backblock and body.

The spring in the pump handle helps hold the pump handle forwards. What I have done on a few of my snipers is grab some springs from a hardware store and find the one that works the best for my tastes. CCM uses a really light spring in there to help make the pump stroke nice and light.

If you have any other questions, phone CCM and talk to Rod. He is great at answering any questions that you might have.
OK, When I first picked up the marker the spring had the required "Bounce" to return the bolt and handle to the required firing position without manually pushing the pump handle completeley forward. After using it; it seems to be smoother but will not spring back completely. Is there an adjustment to increase this springs pressure? Or is a stiffer spring required? Maybe Im getting drag somewhere on the pump stroke from a shell or paint that may have gotten the marker? I guess I will have to take it a part and clean everything first see if that helps. PE oil is good for lube right its all pretty much the same stuff.
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Old 05-12-2013, 01:29 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Unfortunately there isn't an adjustment that you can do without taking the pump handle off the gun. I have heard of guys putting shims in pump handle or changing the spring to something a little stiffer.

My personal T2 that I bought at LL2 (everything is pretty much stock) cannot have the trigger pulled (with the gun cocked) when the gun is held like yours (pump handle pointing up).

I did run into a problem with the gun a few years ago when I pulled the backblock off and over torqued the bolts that hold it in place. Seems when you over tighten them it makes the rods rub the guides near the end of the stroke. It is something that you would notice right away if you did it.

TF suggests using Tri-Flow oil on the bolt over normal paintball gun oil. I find that other oils can swell delrin (what the bolt is made of). You can find it at any bike shop (it is used on the chain).
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Old 05-12-2013, 06:44 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EgoPossum View Post
Unfortunately there isn't an adjustment that you can do without taking the pump handle off the gun. I have heard of guys putting shims in pump handle or changing the spring to something a little stiffer.

My personal T2 that I bought at LL2 (everything is pretty much stock) cannot have the trigger pulled (with the gun cocked) when the gun is held like yours (pump handle pointing up).

I did run into a problem with the gun a few years ago when I pulled the backblock off and over torqued the bolts that hold it in place. Seems when you over tighten them it makes the rods rub the guides near the end of the stroke. It is something that you would notice right away if you did it.

TF suggests using Tri-Flow oil on the bolt over normal paintball gun oil. I find that other oils can swell delrin (what the bolt is made of). You can find it at any bike shop (it is used on the chain).
Maybe I will try a stiffer / longer spring in the handle then. Play around with it a lil. I would like for the pump handle to spring back completely after a ball is chambered without having to hold the pump handle forward. Thanks for the suggestions.

Last edited by Mr Idiot Box; 05-12-2013 at 06:50 PM.
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Old 05-12-2013, 07:03 PM   #7 (permalink)
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the way i overcome it when i have to shoot uphil is i put pressure on the AT arm with my thumb, its enough to keep things closed

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Old 05-12-2013, 07:07 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I have a number of pumps, AC snipers, trilly snipers, and 2 T2's and have a couple of thoughts. On our new T2 the pump spring will not return the pump handle when pointed vertically as noted above. It will return we pointed horizontally, however, I always encourage pump player to keep a hand on the pump handle. On one of my snipers, it would fire 10 FPS higher when my hand isn't on the pump handle to keep it pulled forward.

With only 3 -4 case though you new T2 your spring shouldn't be significantly weaker at this point. I would encourage you to ensure that your upper tube, bolt, and all guide rods are clean without any paint residue or any previous lube build-up if you used anything other than tri-flow.

You should watch TF's you tube video's, they're worth the time. And I second the recommendation to call Rod at CCM to discuss your performance issues as well.

Cheers,
Brian
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Old 05-12-2013, 11:07 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Great manuals and videos in the CCM stickies.

Try a Phantom return spring.
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Old 05-13-2013, 07:17 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Some people double up the pump return spring.
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