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Old 04-28-2010, 07:39 PM   #11 (permalink)
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MaD - How much room in the garage do you need and are you anywhere near Livonia?
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Old 04-29-2010, 12:52 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Here's the "ano line"...

The outer 'tray' is a cement mixing tray. Besides a little cement, there's some baking powder sitting in the bottom for any drips or minor emergencies I may have. Notice the condensation on the lid. Be very careful with tupperware. My only drips have occurred while moving large containers. The board on top is my clip set. It is double wired (direct lead to both ends), but I don't think small parts care. There is an automotive battery tester there on the left.


This is the small distilled water ano rinse 'tank'. I always use the squeeze bottle first (with distilled water) between any steps. The RC charger is there on the right. A $10 150W fish tank heater is laying back there. I've used it twice; it works, but not a big deal in Houston. The ano tank tray also serves as an ice bath. I stock the garage freezer with ice and make a water jacket if I just have to ano something in the summer. There is a $15 air pump for agitation in there. The bubbles it makes agitates me more than the ano. There is a cheap circulation pump for the ice bath, but I haven't used it for ano yet.


Good chemical gloves (glasses not shown), squeeze bottle with distilled water. The big tub on the left is dirty lye stripper for old ano. The little tub on the right is basically the same thing, but I keep it clean as an etch before ano. I usually strip, rinse, wash, finish, wash, etch, then ano.


Big box of baking soda and some weird size box of acid from the auto store. I keep the garden hose outside the door.


Confiscated vegetable steamer for sealing. Big parts have to be boiled in the kitchen.


Old battery charger. The ammeter works, but it reads about 1.5 amps too high for the ano bath. There are losses from the RC charger, but the needle is off too.


This shows the aluminum strip cathode set. Under this tub are four little rings of PVC pipe that hold the tub up to let the water underneath, if there is any. Aluminum is recommended because lead may have alloying elements, but I get pits in these strips. I used nylon screws to hold them together. I tried aluminum pop rivets, but they weren't too much aluminum and they rotted out pretty quick.


I usually warm and dip the dye in the kitchen. I like stainless or teflon coated pans. I have a Taylor thermometer I use to watch my temperatures. My pans come out cleaner than they started, which can be bad if you get some old baked on oil layer floating in your dye. Rit doesn't stain ceramic coated cook tops.

For my first attempt, I just had to buy the inner tub, the acid and baking soda, the clips, some aluminum wire, distilled water, and the gloves. I found the rest around the garage or the kitchen. Rit dye is about $4 a batch. I only save it if I like the color.
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Old 04-29-2010, 10:42 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Thanks for the images Spider, I must admit for the pretty simple setup you have going, you get some great results.
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Old 04-29-2010, 11:24 AM   #14 (permalink)
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It's easy to get in a hurry, but some parts just pop out great by themselves. You just have to watch your bath times, bubbles, temperature, and current. Touch only the hanging wires and try to keep it all clean. Use time in the stripper as a limit and guideline. Stripper temperature, concentration, and ano condition change the required strip time some. I use beer in the garage refrigerator to keep me occupied. It's easy to keep track of the brown bottles in the clutter.

Most of my dye problems above were just my expectations of the color. I finally remembered that I darkened (with green) the dye bath for the second run of the rail. I now think the tac rail is actually 6000 series, and its baking history may be the source of its flaws. This discussion has helped me sort out some issues.

The bigger and better your setup, the easier it is to be consistent. If I had a whole, expensive marker to do, I would hand it over to someone that has a steady business of it. But for our old marker parts, it's fun, especially for beat up non-critical tolerance parts. The old aluminum RT rails are a good example. I came across a duck bill ASA that needed to loose a couple thousandths anyway (too tight).

I like the idea of using small ice chests for baths. If you can use only the lower half and get them without drains (no leaks), they would be safer to move and cover up. In Houston though, I need cooling more than heating, so I have thin tubs until I come up with a chiller system.
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Old 05-03-2010, 11:36 AM   #15 (permalink)
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For those thinking of doing a setup .
To help you save some money on setup.

1 Buy the manual form Caswell (well worth it)
2 Buy your dye's from them as well ( little expensive but worth it in the end)
3 Rit dyes are not worth your time. They mutate and cause some weird effects and drastic color variations from part to part.
4 Buy your self a descent power supply( don't need to be a rectifier like most say)
I'm using Pyramid PS52KX Power Supply and MASTECH DC POWER SUPPLY VATIABLE 0-30 VOLTS @ 0-10 AMPS - eBay (item 200457136930 end time Jun-01-10 07:25:11 PDT)
Both work well but always seem to use the Pyramid.
5 Cathodes. Buy lead ones from Caswell They work better over aluminum .
6 As for your containers. I'm using a 25 or 30 gal storage container. (these hold up well) Plus they have lids.
For your dyes Go to homedepot or lowes and get buckets. I use the 2.5 gal ones for dye. (easier to store more dyes with smaller buckets verse the 5 gal buckets)
7 Heating your dyes. These don't need to be super hot so simple cheap fish tank heaters work well. Just plug them in before you dip your parts in the ano tank and it's normally right where the temp should be by the time you need it.
8 Get a fish tank air pump and some air stones as well. Agitating your dyes while dying the parts gives a more even flow of the color.

Not sure if i missed anything. But sure someone will let me know if i did. hehee
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Old 05-03-2010, 12:10 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rainman229 View Post
7 Heating your dyes. These don't need to be super hot so simple cheap fish tank heaters work well. Just plug them in before you dip your parts in the ano tank and it's normally right where the temp should be by the time you need it.
The Rit dyes are definitely flaky. I don't know about the Caswell dyes, but the Rit dyes seem more active at warmer temperatures. I suggest at least monitoring your dye temperatures between parts, something I forgot last time.
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Old 05-03-2010, 01:52 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Rainman229, what do you use for a cleaning solution. a pre-ano dip (etch / bright dip?) and final sealer?

I have used both the Rit and Caswell dyes. The Caswell dyes are very nice and the difference is night and day.

Also, while we're one he subject it's probably good to mention proper ventilation. Not sure about anyone else but I'm not a fan of the balls. They decrease the amount of vapor but there still will be some and you can't see what's going on with your parts. What I did is make a lid with a fan pushing the vapor through a duct and out of the garage. It worked pretty well but there was always a little cloud when taking the top off. If I did it again I would probably do something like a range hood over the ano tank or just some really good central ventilation.
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Old 05-03-2010, 01:58 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Rainman,

I'm assuming this is the Caswell Manual you're refering to...

The Caswell Plating Manual

Thanks,
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Old 05-03-2010, 03:36 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaD View Post
Rainman229, what do you use for a cleaning solution. a pre-ano dip (etch / bright dip?) and final sealer?

I have used both the Rit and Caswell dyes. The Caswell dyes are very nice and the difference is night and day.

Also, while we're one he subject it's probably good to mention proper ventilation. Not sure about anyone else but I'm not a fan of the balls. They decrease the amount of vapor but there still will be some and you can't see what's going on with your parts. What I did is make a lid with a fan pushing the vapor through a duct and out of the garage. It worked pretty well but there was always a little cloud when taking the top off. If I did it again I would probably do something like a range hood over the ano tank or just some really good central ventilation.
CASWELL Zincate Solution.

Venting the vapor is the best way. the vapor balls suck.

I put my tank on a self thats rubber lined And made a hood that acts as a self on top then vented it out with a fan. works rather well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by O'Lane View Post
Rainman,

I'm assuming this is the Caswell Manual you're refering to...

The Caswell Plating Manual

Thanks,
O'Lane
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Old 05-03-2010, 04:02 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Did i hear something about a cheap chiller setup?

Most of the chiller setups on the market Are for Aquariums hence why there over priced.

2 cheap ways to make a chiller

1
Need 1 Window A/c unit
Some wood.
make a box with the wood the go's around your tank leaving about 4 to 6 gap from the tank to the wood. Then you need to duct the a/c unit into the box. Being that all cold air will be going in to the box. The a/c unit will never cycle out. and will run continues.
Not a big fan of that set up.

2
You need about 4 to 6 feet titanium tubing 1/4' od
1/4" id plastic tubing
Hose clamps
Few adapters
1 submersible pump With a ceramic shaft. (for salt water aquariums) Move more is not always better in this setup.
12v 1200 cfm radiator fan.

With the titanium tubing you need to make coil of sorts(more like a radiator) That fits in front of the fan.
The fan will draw heat from the acid running threw the titanium and flow it back in to the tank. And at the same time reduces hot spots in the tank by creating a flow in the tank. And is safer then air agitating it. which puts more vapor in the air.
This is the setup i was going to do. But since i rarely get my tank over 80 deg I haven't thought about it much.
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