Mini-mill questions. - Page 2

op4_camper · 08-14-2007, 07:30 PM

tend chip when they really start chattering

Your part isnt held right. or End mill is to long or your taking more then 50% of dia. in cut. or to little mat. left and its acting like a trampoline. Coated tooling dosnt chip any easyer. Carbide is what chips easy. You can get coated HSS and carbid. in tin, ticn tian, tiain cvd.

R8 is good way to hold tooling. Get solid holders for endmills and use collets for drills and the likes. Tons and tons of R8 can be had used and the new imports are ok. I dont like them because it just bothers me.

Just run at the right rpm and you will be fine. Belt drive is good because belts are a lot cheaper to replace and if you crash the belt should slip first.

Get a good edge finder. there like 14.00 to 18.00 dollers. If its manual machine dont climb mill. and work in the same direction due to back lash.

secretweaponevan · 08-14-2007, 09:56 PM

Thanks everyone (especially Deus) for all of the great info!

This should be more than enough to get me started, but feel free to add anything else.

BTW, what is a hogging mill? I googled it and this thread came up, lol, but I couldn't find a good example.

Thanks again.

Deus Machina · 08-14-2007, 10:44 PM

A hogging mill is the same (or close enough; I don't know the difference) as a roughing mill. A large, serrated mill for cutting out big chunks of material.

op4_camper · 08-15-2007, 07:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Deus Machina

A hogging mill is the same (or close enough; I don't know the difference) as a roughing mill. A large, serrated mill for cutting out big chunks of material.

Except it has nothing to due with size. Drop the large part.

Deus Machina · 08-15-2007, 07:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by op4_camper

Except it has nothing to due with size. Drop the large part.

Alright, well enough, but nothing in a mini is particularly large, and if you're removing enough material to warrant a hogging mill anyway, you're removing enough to use a relatively large one.

Railgun · 08-19-2007, 09:26 PM

Well, if you're trying to choose between R8 and MT3 quill tapers at least you're not looking at a really small mill. It's often a big mistake to get too small a tool when it comes to lathes and mills. You need room for the tooling as well as the workpiece and along with that enough table space to clamp the tooling that holds the workpiece. All of this "furniture" has the effect of upsizing the machine you should be considering.

Basically if you want to be able to work on bodies or barrels then the mill should be large enough that there's no way you can lift it on your own.

And as DM suggested there are not many hobby sized mills that will benifit from hogging mills. They just don't have the power to push them hard enough to justify them in the first place.

secretweaponevan · 08-19-2007, 10:04 PM

So by hogging mill I would basically be looking for a larger bridgeport-style knee mill and using a 2 flute bit to remove a lot of material quickly?

I know these are newb questions, but I did just order the Machinery's Handbook (27th edition, Large Print) and have a Clarke 7x12 Lathe that should be here in the next day or two. I don't plan on even plugging in the lathe until I read up on setup and lubing so as not to damage it.

As much as I've tried to fight it, it has been my dream for the longest time to own some sort of machine shop. I spend a lot of time designing pneumatic switches and dreaming up paintball mods. Hopefully there will be some useful things coming from me in the near future!

Wish me luck.

Railgun · 08-19-2007, 11:05 PM

Hogging mills come in two, four and more flutes depending on the sizes. More flutes increases the feed rate since you've got more flutes sharing the load. But of course you again need the power to push them that hard. The whole hogging mill deal is really a big production sort of choice. Hobbyists just don't need that sort of thing.

The choice of two or four/more flute use is still based on if you're cutting a slot or not. Two flute cutters are center cutting types so you can plunge cut a slot. Or even if the slot is open ended it's still good to use a two flute for them.

kidneythief · 08-20-2007, 01:17 PM

Heres a roughing endmill vs a standard finishing endmill.

Hogging isnt reallly the correct term for the actuall cutter...more of what the cutter does. You would basically use a roughing bit to remove large amounts of material quickly. Typically when making large pockets and such for molds. In every day PB machining ive never found a use for one. Especially when considering a minimill and the lack of rigidity.

-Jake

Chris Mader · 08-30-2007, 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Deus Machina

I meant to include hat with the center finders, but yes. Good stuff to have.

Also: http://www.wttool.com/images/normal/13119981.jpg

A center finder for round pieces.

It should be pointed out that those are meant for drill presses, not mills. They aren't a precision measuring tool. Get a quality edge finder set.

Like most things, you get what you pay for. Mini mills are fine if you're just learning/tinkering but you'll soon realize they're just toys. Before you know it you'll have big iron envy. I bought my Taig about 2 years ago and now I have a Tree 2UVR mill sitting in the garage.

08-19-2007, 09:26 PM	#16 (permalink)
Railgun MCB Member Join Date: Oct 2006	Well, if you're trying to choose between R8 and MT3 quill tapers at least you're not looking at a really small mill. It's often a big mistake to get too small a tool when it comes to lathes and mills. You need room for the tooling as well as the workpiece and along with that enough table space to clamp the tooling that holds the workpiece. All of this "furniture" has the effect of upsizing the machine you should be considering. Basically if you want to be able to work on bodies or barrels then the mill should be large enough that there's no way you can lift it on your own. And as DM suggested there are not many hobby sized mills that will benifit from hogging mills. They just don't have the power to push them hard enough to justify them in the first place. __________________ Model airplanes are cool too!

08-19-2007, 11:05 PM	#18 (permalink)
Railgun MCB Member Join Date: Oct 2006	Hogging mills come in two, four and more flutes depending on the sizes. More flutes increases the feed rate since you've got more flutes sharing the load. But of course you again need the power to push them that hard. The whole hogging mill deal is really a big production sort of choice. Hobbyists just don't need that sort of thing. The choice of two or four/more flute use is still based on if you're cutting a slot or not. Two flute cutters are center cutting types so you can plunge cut a slot. Or even if the slot is open ended it's still good to use a two flute for them. __________________ Model airplanes are cool too!

08-20-2007, 01:17 PM	#19 (permalink)
kidneythief Lord humungus the Mod Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Home Finally!!!	Heres a roughing endmill vs a standard finishing endmill. Hogging isnt reallly the correct term for the actuall cutter...more of what the cutter does. You would basically use a roughing bit to remove large amounts of material quickly. Typically when making large pockets and such for molds. In every day PB machining ive never found a use for one. Especially when considering a minimill and the lack of rigidity. -Jake __________________ "I wish simply to be a decent person, yet I will always fear the retards" -Brian Hindt(geech) MCB Moderator Kidney Machine

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08-14-2007, 07:30 PM	#11 (permalink)
op4_camper MCB Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Somerset Pa	tend chip when they really start chattering Your part isnt held right. or End mill is to long or your taking more then 50% of dia. in cut. or to little mat. left and its acting like a trampoline. Coated tooling dosnt chip any easyer. Carbide is what chips easy. You can get coated HSS and carbid. in tin, ticn tian, tiain cvd. R8 is good way to hold tooling. Get solid holders for endmills and use collets for drills and the likes. Tons and tons of R8 can be had used and the new imports are ok. I dont like them because it just bothers me. Just run at the right rpm and you will be fine. Belt drive is good because belts are a lot cheaper to replace and if you crash the belt should slip first. Get a good edge finder. there like 14.00 to 18.00 dollers. If its manual machine dont climb mill. and work in the same direction due to back lash.

08-14-2007, 09:56 PM	#12 (permalink)
secretweaponevan Corn-on-the-cob champion! Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Summerfield, FL	Thanks everyone (especially Deus) for all of the great info! This should be more than enough to get me started, but feel free to add anything else. BTW, what is a hogging mill? I googled it and this thread came up, lol, but I couldn't find a good example. Thanks again.

08-19-2007, 10:04 PM	#17 (permalink)
secretweaponevan Corn-on-the-cob champion! Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Summerfield, FL	So by hogging mill I would basically be looking for a larger bridgeport-style knee mill and using a 2 flute bit to remove a lot of material quickly? I know these are newb questions, but I did just order the Machinery's Handbook (27th edition, Large Print) and have a Clarke 7x12 Lathe that should be here in the next day or two. I don't plan on even plugging in the lathe until I read up on setup and lubing so as not to damage it. As much as I've tried to fight it, it has been my dream for the longest time to own some sort of machine shop. I spend a lot of time designing pneumatic switches and dreaming up paintball mods. Hopefully there will be some useful things coming from me in the near future! Wish me luck.