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Old 09-16-2012, 08:03 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Pile of Pyro Poo! (Or, how to fill in 'Cocker eye holes)

Many years ago, actually before I even became a full-time airsmith, I built a mildy-customized 'Cocker for a local field regular. Fairly simple mods, even for the time, with the main part being some basic milling and anno.

Since the guy went by the handle "PyroFiend" online, one of the mods I did to the gun was a custom "flame job" to the front pneumatics shroud. Here's the original 1997 pic from my Galleries:



Fast forward six or seven years, and he eventually sells it- by that time further modded, well used, now dismantled- to another friend of mine. He passes it on to me for repair, but not being a high priority job, and that friend's moving in and out of State at least twice, it sits for a while.

Earlier this summer I unearthed it again (I have, at last count, 101 personal markers and project guns, not counting client jobs) gave it a quick evaluation, and ordered a couple of parts I figured it'd need.

This weekend, once I finally had the parts, I took a few minutes to put it together. Here's what I started with:



The new parts were a red Benchmark from a fellow MCB'er, and a red-tipped cocking rod, red Shocktech LPR, and a red Orracle 3-way all off of eBay.

Now, this would otherwise be a simple and straightforward 'Cocker reassembly, the kind of thing many of us can do with our eyes closed. But sometime in the marker's history, Pyro apparently either did or was trying to install a RaceGun E-frame, and so there's a pair of breakbeam eye holes in the breech.



Unfortunately eye holes like that can't be fixed completely invisibly, but they can be patched without welding or oddball bolt-on covers. We start by tapping the slightly-larger-than-1/8" holes with an 8-32 tap...



Then take an aluminum 8-32 machine screw, slather it with red LocTite, and run it in 'til it fills the entire hole.



Like so:



Then, saw off the bulk of it very carefully with a fine-tooth jeweler's saw, being careful not to scratch the anodizing.



Use the rest of the screw to fill the other side.



Now, protect the body with some clear packing tape, leaving the sawn-off screw uncovered.



This lets you very carefully run a file across the side to flatten the excess screw to very close to flush with the body. Go slow, pay attention to the file pressure and angle, and watch you don't "ball up" the tape. if you do, stop and replace that strip.



That gets the "plug" to within a few thou of flush with the body. I could go further and make it completely flush, but that risks scratching the anno- and on this gun, it's already pretty beat. I didn't want to scuff it up any more than necessary. If you're working on a bare body, or one that will be stripped and reannoed, then it's easy to block-sand the plug to perfectly flush with the body, so that when the whole thing is anodized, it'll very nearly completely disappear.



The inner portions of the screws are even easier- If you have the right tool. I bored one side out with the same tool I use for cutting pressed in feed necks (which I made back when I did the first Vee-Twin body kit) and the other side, being slightly into the feed neck area, I just carefully trimmed down with a Dremel and a carbide burr.

If you're careful, you could also trim the inner portion with a reamer, or a long rat-tail file. Or skip it entirely and simply not run the screw in that far, though keeping in mind you'll wind up with a slight cavity in the breech that'll be hard to clean broken paint out of.



The rest was simple cleaning, assembly and timing. She's got her nicks and dings, and the colors of the new parts don't quite match the original PyroCocker blood red, but it's once again a sweet little slide-trigger.

For the sake of the Pile-O-Poo Build-Off, I came in right on budget. The frame and LPR were $35 each, the 3-way was $20 and the cocking rod was $10, all including shipping.

Doc.
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Old 09-16-2012, 08:16 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I just finished explaining this process to someone at the field...

Now I can send them here, and they can even have pictures

Thanks Doc!

Ty
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Old 09-16-2012, 08:58 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Old 09-17-2012, 12:08 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Nice job!
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Old 09-17-2012, 12:40 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Enginuity at its best. Thanks for the write up and thank you for sharing a little trick.
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Old 09-18-2012, 01:26 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I like it. Saves on welding. HMMMMMMMMMMMMM wonder how this will take to ano?

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Old 09-18-2012, 01:34 AM   #7 (permalink)
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So I have stolen this and archived it in my "WORD" . Just something to refer back to later

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Last edited by blackrain; 09-18-2012 at 01:39 AM.
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Old 09-18-2012, 01:55 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackrain View Post
HMMMMMMMMMMMMM wonder how this will take to ano?
-It should anodize just fine. There might be a small issue with the "plug" being a slightly lighter or darker color, depending on the alloy of the screw, but most likely, it'll be unnoticible.

The only other issue is whether or not the plug has electrical continuity with the rest of the body. If it doesn't- as in, if the loctite has completely isolated it- then the plug won't anodize. It'll stay "white" while the rest takes the color.

However, I've only seen this happen when using a "glue" for a sealer- years ago, I used a JB-Weld type epoxy to glue-in/seal the front plug on a VM-68 body after removing the original ASA. The anno shop (PK at the time, as I recall) apparently wound up redoing the body three times trying to get the anno on the plug to "take". After the third try, they left it bare (the plug, not the body.)

Loctite is "runnier" than the epoxy, and so tends to not isolate the plug as much. But if you're worried, just slightly distort a thread or two before running the plug or screw in. Like squish it a little- just a little- with a pair of pliers. The distorted thread(s) will help ensure contact as you run it in.

Doc.
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Old 09-18-2012, 03:38 AM   #9 (permalink)
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If you are worried about the screw's unknown alloy being different, you can always thread a piece of 6061 rod for your patch plug.
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