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Old 10-28-2012, 07:42 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Talking Tax Return Project: Fastest Mech 98 Custom

I am thinking of starting a project with my tax return this season. I would like to take a Tippmann 98 Custom, and make it the fastest all mechanical marker possible. No batteries or electronics will be used anywhere in the project, including the loader.

I was thinking of starting with a standard Tippmann 98 R/T (pre-ACT) and adding the following:

1.) Red Hot [aluminum] powertube w/ derlin bolt
2.) TechT Zero Kick hammer
3.) TechT Hair Trigger kit
4.) Palmer's QEV response trigger kit
5.) Direct [through foregrip] ASA
6.) Rear cocking bolt (to pretect hands from reciprocating knob)
7.) Madman spring kit
8.) Cyclone feed
9.) Lapco Cyclone upgrade kit
10.) Hot Rod Cyclone piston
11.) Palmer's QEV line kit [for Cyclone]

I plan on running it all off dual 24oz CO2 tanks via my Cooper-T teeter remote (for maximum shots per fill).

Do any of these modifications seem unnessisary? Also, what kind of ROF should I expect from this setup?

Any help is appreciated!

Last edited by Iconic Muffinman; 10-29-2012 at 01:09 AM.
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Old 10-29-2012, 12:09 AM   #2 (permalink)
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You should look up Smilieized (sp?) model 98's. I think he used the older style sears for durability.
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Old 10-29-2012, 12:39 AM   #3 (permalink)
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See if you can up a size on the RT hoses. I put some 1/4" lines I had left over from a rainmaker project on a M98 RT at the local shop and we had a fun night of seeing who could get the highest reading on the big red chrono. We use a Halo B on it and a vertical 9 oz. Highest reading was 24 bps. And we had to replace half the internals the next day.
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Old 10-29-2012, 01:08 AM   #4 (permalink)
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The Palmer's QEV line kits use 1/4" or 1/8" lines IIRC.

That paired with an ajustable QEV to vent some of the extra pressure should give me plenty of fire rate.

What all internals did you have to replace?

I figure going with the original style 98 fo the original sear, switching to a lower mass hammer (with much smaller surface area) and derlin bolt, plus beefed up trigger pins should help out the overall wear problems.
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Old 10-29-2012, 06:27 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Another bump.

Any information helps!
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Old 10-29-2012, 07:36 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Polish the inside of the shells. Graphite the trigger assembly
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Old 10-29-2012, 09:31 PM   #7 (permalink)
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you probably don't need the new power tube. and don't forget to polish your internals.
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Old 10-29-2012, 11:33 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Old 10-30-2012, 12:39 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Smiley!

I actually just finished reading through your thread about the 98's you make. I like the work!

I dont mean to sound "greedy" but I am actually looking to get a smidge more than 16bps. I am hoping modifying the cyclone a tad and adding the QEV's into the RT/cyclone line will get me the desired 20+bps. Lowering the hammer weight and trigger pull length may help too. What spring did you use on the sear?

Fluff, what do you mean by putting graphite on the trigger assembly? Couldnt that [negetively] reduce some of the "lockup" friction between the trigger and the sear?

Cheese, I want the aluminum powertube for durability, and a lower friction against the bolt. Otherwise Id just keep the stock one.
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Old 10-30-2012, 11:10 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Not on the top where it contacts the sear. On the sides, where it rubs against the body. Reduces trigger pull weight by about a third if done right.
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