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Old 10-15-2013, 12:51 PM   #1 (permalink)
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My Polished Pump Build

Copied my build thread over from PBNation to here, figured you guys would enjoy it just as much if not more and I seen to find a lot more parts and work on this site. I'll continue to update and feel free to ask any questions or leave comments.

So after being out of paintball after playing all through college, I've decided to build another pump for a few reasons. The main reason is to have a cheap way of playing any type of paintball, whether it be speedball, woodsball or scenario. Also it's what I enjoy doing, custom work and building, repairing etc. guns.

Here is where the project began: after tossing the idea of even starting a build around, I found a nice pump that I liked but didn't like the price.

Here's the gun:




Looked decent in the pictures.
It was already half-blocked which I wanted and it had a WWA (White Wolf Airsmithing) pump kit which is the same kit I used on my last pump build and loved it once set-up properly. Also had a valuable CCM frame which I never planned on using but helped with the decisions.
After some negotiation with the PO I pulled the trigger and bought the gun complete besides the asa and rail.

The project was under way so I dug out all of my old gear, knowing I had quite a few parts I wanted to use.

First part was my favorite barrel that I've always kept over the years. It's a WWA freak back which can be hard to get and I've always loved the look of it. Here's a few pictures of it, I had some CF vinyl laying around so it's currently CF wrapped.



Also wrapped a Macdev asa I planned on using. It came off a Drone DX but the threads had been messed up by a bad tank bonnet.



Both


Ended up removing the vinyl from the asa but not the freak back.

Last part I still had I wanted to use was a hyper 2 that I've had for a long time. I shaved/milled whatever the center rings out of it. Still functions great but has always needed to be polished.

Once I had the gun I stripped it and removed all the parts I didn't want to use.
The CCM frame was quickly sold. CCM feedneck was removed, CP reg removed etc.

Found a few small problems but wasn't unhappy with the deal

-Detent is barely working - needs to be replaced
-Pump arm is bent - planned on replacing and added dual pump arms anyways
-Hammer was cut, not slotted - not sure if it'll be a problem but I have a spare I can slot if needed


-Bolt showed more wear than I care for
-Plan to polish the breach because of this too


-Bolt pin was ghetto rigged - need to replace


-Pump handle was trimmed but not very well or even
(Picture is after some 220 grit and it mostly smoothed out)
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Old 10-15-2013, 12:58 PM   #2 (permalink)
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So parts I needed were basically just a frame at this point.

Plans are to put on a single slider, roller sear (and trigger plate if I can find one) and Ego feedneck mod.

Stopped by a local store where I know the owner and asked about a few things. The owner does machining so I asked about a tap for my asa and he easily cleaned up the threads making my Macdev asa usable for sure.
He didn't have much for cocker parts, only frame he had was a double finger slider.

Same day still searching for parts I stopped by a friend's house who is an old school baller. Into building cockers etc so I knew he'd have some parts.
Turned out to be a gold mine!
He pulled out a like new ANS quickfire 45* slider with all internals and randomly had a dust black ego feedneck as well. Grabbed a set of basic grips off of him and a straight VA.

So that night the gun looked like this:


Ego feedneck will be so much shorter


And straight VA (actually won't be using this now though)


Polished up the body and frame just by hand to see how it'd look




And now it's time to fix what's wrong with the gun and bring everything up to my standards.

I needed a new pump rod, well 2 actually, so I looked for some aluminum stock but only found brass which got me thinking


Polished brass pump rods on a polished body looks real nice to me

Here's the brass rod, 3'



Today and tonight I collected some sand paper and began working on a few parts. I used 220 grit to remove the ano from parts and remove all machine marks etc from the frame, round a few edges on the frame.

Frame at 220


I also worked on the asa, decided to leave some black accents since the gun will be black and polished (also easier to polish this way for now)



Did some work on a spare freak tip that can be seen in this last picture. I was blue and now is down to 220 grit. Hopefully I'll be able to fully polish it without the blue being noticeable. Also keeping my main freak tip that was pictured earlier ano'd.

And this is how everything looks now, table full of parts for a while
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Old 10-15-2013, 12:59 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Lots more done today, starting with picking up some 400 grit sand paper since I already bought 220, 600 and 1200 but didn't have anything between.

I also did some looking around and research about running a hard line instead of macro line. From what I can tell I should be able to run a 1/4" brass line without any issues. I just have to figure out how much of it I actually want and order it

Along the same lines as that goes the gun will continue the theme of polished aluminum, polished brass and black. For now the black won't all match (some dust some gloss) but I'll get to that eventually. Other plans for brass are:

Secondary pump guide made from brass - it's 1/4" so solid brass rod can be cut down, threaded and the tip shaped the match the stock SS one

Bolt pin made from brass - same 1/4" as the guide solid brass rod, just have to figure out a top piece but have a few ideas

Brass trigger shoe - should be able to pick up an old school one for cheap

Started to look into brass freak tips for the gun, heard of a few being custom made but haven't seen any pictures or prices so that's unseen for now. Would be nice but not going to invest a ton of $$ just for a brass tip.

Now onto the actual work that was done

Stopped by the local store again after looking around for a roller sear and remembering that the double slider they had was loading with a roller trigger plate and found out it has the matching roller sear too. I didn't want the frame but the shop owner wouldn't part it out so I ended up buying the whole frame (which will now be for sale) but ended up with these:

(fully polished quick fire trigger/sear and the extreme rage roller set)

Here's the frame they came in:


Beavertail and all


So now I'm content with having almost every part I want for the main build. Last part is the Lapco VA and I decided to just order it, should be here this week! :runaway:
Looks like this:


I grabbed a few more tools and decided to tackle the ego feedneck tonight

Hacksaw =


File, file, file =



More filing =


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Old 10-15-2013, 12:59 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I took quite a few pictures of the body to show the current shape before I begin the major work on it.














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Old 10-15-2013, 01:00 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I was looking around online and found a set of brass tipped adjustment screws for slider frames, making for a smoother trigger pull because of the self lubricating brass. Went to check out my frame's screws and this is what I found. It uses 2 of the same size screw, instead of 1 big and 1 small and they're both tipped with what looks like some kind of plastic.
If anybody have more information on this I'd love to find out. I might do some research on this out of curiosity.


I didn't get any real work done but was organizing and digging through parts. I ran into this shocker snatch grip that me and friend ano'd a few years back. I threw it on the frame and body to see how it'd look.
I know it's not very stylish but with a balanced setup I always loved having a snatch grip, especially when playing speedball. Not sure if it'll end up on this gun but it's definitely not going anywhere.




Also found this gem in my parts box, a Phantom feed gate. If I decide to make a stock class feed for this I would just need some brass tubing, an elbow and be set. We'll see if/when I ever get to that.


And last pic, the organizing that I actually did. Got all the loose little parts picked up.

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Old 10-15-2013, 01:00 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Had a great morning for this project!
I wanted to try and source the brass I needed locally before ordering anything. I'd rather see it in person than online for this stuff. Only took 2 stores, 1 recommending the other, to find exactly what I needed.

First stop had the 1/4" brass rod I wanted to make the secondary guide and bolt pin out of. I also grabbed a nice 10-32 tap because my whole set seens to be MIA and it's a quality USA made tap, worth the $4 it was.

Second stop had the 1/4" brass tubing I wanted to make a hard line out of. They had 12" and 36" lengths, bought a 12" and know where I can get more if needed.

After getting back and polishing up the brass a little

1/4" Tube 1/4" Rod 3/16" Rod




Standard macro fitting




I then grabbed some of the 400 grit I had picked up and started to work on the ASA and freak tip. This sand paper had a no-slip backing to it which makes it super easy to work with, while using less to keep a grip.

Here is the freak tip, taped off a line to show the difference. The whole tip was 220 grit which removed the ano. Then it was sanded with 400 grit, 600 grit and I used some mother's mag polish on a cloth to see where it's at. Very impressed for only 600 grit, I plan on going up to 1200 or 2000 depending. A bench mounted buffing/polishing wheel will be used so 1200 should do the trick. Of course everything will be hand polished after the polishing wheel for perfection.





Here you can see why you want to go up to a higher grit, you can still see all the small scratches in the metal. While this could be buffed and polished out I find it easier and a better finish to use high grit sand paper.

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Old 10-15-2013, 01:24 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Looking good. Question, why not strip the anno instead of all the sanding ?
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Old 10-15-2013, 01:32 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wd3d View Post
Looking good. Question, why not strip the anno instead of all the sanding ?
To leave all internal surfaces, including the bore of the tip and the inside of the ASA, still ano'd. It would change tolerances and not leave as nice of a surfaces as they already have. No need to strip the parts. Plus I can leave some internals in the asa when only working on the outside. And I can always re-polish the external surfaces much easier.

Basically, raw aluminum internally = bad

The hype 2 was stripped and there's a lot more residue on the orings and inside when used from the raw aluminum.
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Old 10-15-2013, 01:44 PM   #9 (permalink)
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That explains that...
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Old 10-15-2013, 01:51 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I have seen people use like over cleaner to strip parts and it can be done only on the surface but that's a lot more work, time and risk I'd rather not take.

Most of my work is done sitting at my kitchen table at night and I like to use hand tools, sand paper, files etc. I'll use a dremel and drill press but only when it's needed, not for everything.
Pretty sure a dremel is the reason for my pump handle being trimmer so bad.
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