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Old 10-23-2006, 10:32 PM   #11 (permalink)
Z50
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As you probably found out with the torch the trick is to use the end of a rather long flame. You want to heat the plastic slowly and don't want the pressure of the gas to push on the plastic as both will cause the plastic to bubble. If you are using an oxy/acetylene torch adjust the pressure WAY down and make sure you are using enough oxygen to burn all the acetylene. Heat is your biggest enemy when working with plastic and a lathe can deliver it if you are not careful.
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Old 10-24-2006, 08:21 AM   #12 (permalink)
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z50- it probably doesn't help that i dont remember what kind of gas i was using, but i remember it was a shorter flame that was being used. I'm not even sure if i'll be doing that any more anyway though, because...

azzy- the wheel worked great! I ended up using a medium wheel/compound and some vice grips, (which didnt actually mar the piece at all).

It came out amazing! I'll post some pics later I suppose, I also changed the piece again as an experiment. I think i'm also going to install that stop pin today beacuase I accidentally turned it down a bit too much.

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Old 10-24-2006, 09:20 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Good stuff

Just remember, that wheel will eat up the part quick if you arent careful.
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Old 10-24-2006, 12:52 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I located, drilled out, and installed the positioning screw. I also took a couple more pics. This is another idea for a shape, with deeper grooves. Its a tad shorter and I drilled a hole about the diameter of a pencil through the middle just to prove that I could. Note the better finish. (would be way better if i didn't drill that dumb hole in the middle)





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Old 10-24-2006, 01:34 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Here's a tip i got for drilling plexi. Go slow and lubricate lots... water is great for cooling the part. it keeps the fogging down a lot.
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Old 10-24-2006, 05:22 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I might try that. One of my ideas involves drilling all the way through.

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Old 10-25-2006, 02:14 AM   #17 (permalink)
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From this website:

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Final polishing will give acrylic a high luster. Power-driven buffing tools are recommended without exception. Buffing wheels are available as attachments for electric drills.

A good buffing wheel for acrylic consists of layers of 3/16" carbonized felt, or layers of unbleached muslin laid together to form a wheel. Solidly stitched wheels should be avoided.

The wheel should reach a surface speed of at least 1200 feet per minute. Speeds of up to 4000 feet per minute are useful for acrylic.

Acrylic should be polished using a commercial buffing compound of the type used for silver or brass, or you can use a non- silicone car polish that has no cleaning solvents in it.

First, however, tallow should be applied to the wheel as a base for the buffing compound. Just touch the tallow stick to the spinning wheel, and then quickly apply the buffing compound.

To polish, move the piece back and forth across the buffing wheel. Be careful not to apply too much pressure. Keep the work constantly moving to prevent heat buildup.

Never begin polishing at the edge of the sheet. The wheel could easily catch the top edge and throw the piece across the room or at you.

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Old 10-25-2006, 02:17 AM   #18 (permalink)
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HTRN, Thank you very much! That will come in handy!

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Old 10-26-2006, 12:12 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Brownell's sells screwdriver handle stock if you'd like different colors....

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Old 11-03-2006, 12:28 AM   #20 (permalink)
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When I polished Plexi I used
Files/ rough Sand paper (Basic shape..A triangle in my case),
lighter sand paper (working out the scratches now)
wet sand ( oh ya baby, really getting rid of scratches now)
then Buffing wheel...Came out looking like glass and no milkyness at all.

from my experience I would stay away from the torch....its way to easy to bubble something up.

Nice work
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