How to fit a CF automag frame on a cocker

Spider! · 08-24-2011, 02:45 PM

Sort of a do it yourself thing. This is where we are going, never mind the colors, they will change.

I happen to like the original automag frame. There's basically only three things you have to do to mount a mag frame on a cocker body.

1) install a sear pin
2) install a trigger extension
3) grind and fit the sear to the trigger extension

The reason this is on a superbolt is because you can strip the superbolt frame for the sear and sear spring. This is a CF frame, but the old metal frame is just a little harder (material and difficulty).

1) For a sear pin, you need a 1/8" diameter steel rod (0.125") right around 0.75" long. Check the fit through the sear. The length is pretty flexible, but try to go under (say 0.75 +0.00/-0.10)

When you take the grips off a cf frame, there's two locator nubs at the top of the frame. These are dummies for the autococker sear pin to make the grips interchangeable. You just use a file or razor saw to cut them off. When you do, leave enough that you can tell where the nub used to be. Then drill a 1/8" hole through the frame, right where the nubs used to be. This can be done by hand. It was hot in the garage, I was impatient and did a crappy job. It still works fine. You can see how the sear spring fits in the frame as is.

2) This sear pin was a 10p nail filed down, until I find my 1/8" music wire. The screw is a stainless #4 machine screw (4-40) about 5/8" long. I drilled and tapped a hole from the back of the trigger up to the forward corner of the safety hole. Also shown is the START of the grinding of the sear. Use a red dremel stone and come back with finer tools for polishing. Use a dremel or a file to remove the top threads of the screw to make a smooth running surface for the sear. The sear is hardened and will polish very smooth if you take the time. Don't shorten the length of the sear, just make it a little thinner.

The length of screw here is almost too long to fit in the frame. You have to wiggle the trigger back in, so you will know when it is too long. While I'm at it, I round off the corners of the trigger a little, to give me a hair more clearance and make it a little more comfortable. As noted in step 3, the final location of the extender screw was moved. Starting half a screw width lower would probably have been just right.

3) Steps 2 and 3 are iterations, meaning you work it and test it and go back. One hint here is to install the trigger, install the sear, then add the sear spring to test the throw. The total throw (travel) just needs to be long enough to catch your cocking lug.

I missed the angle of my screw, it was too high and didn't give me any sear travel as you can see in this mock up. The sear is in there. I thought it should be better than my first frame right off the bat, but hey...

I ended up redrilling lower on the back of the trigger, just below the existing entrance and coming up to the same point in the back of the safety hole. I back filled with some JB weld and sanded it smooth. I also took some more off the sear and rounded the tip where it rides the screw-flat. Somewhere between the height of the trigger extension and the thickness of the sear arm is enough difference to let the sear tip sit up above the top of the frame.

Once I get it setup, I hate to take it out, which is why I waited for a new project to take pictures.

I actually ended up with more travel than I needed, up past the hammer if I push the pump back too far. It is an after market hammer and has a short front to it.

Before you drive the trigger pin back in, don't forget to put the safety (or autotrigger cam) back in if you want.

Fatalis · 08-24-2011, 05:27 PM

Great how-to! Now do one on how to put a CCM frame on a mag!

Leafy · 08-24-2011, 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fatalis

Great how-to! Now do one on how to put a CCM frame on a mag!

take all the guts out of it adjust the actuator rod to the right length and put the screw in the holes.

Fatalis · 08-24-2011, 09:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Leafy

take all the guts out of it adjust the actuator rod to the right length and put the screw in the holes.

Think there may be a little more to that.

Leafy · 08-24-2011, 09:29 PM

Well no, all the guts for a mag frame are in the rail. All it takes to run a mag frame on a cocker is to put the guts in so all it should take the run a cocker frame on a mag is to take the guts out.

Fatalis · 08-24-2011, 09:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Leafy

Well no, all the guts for a mag frame are in the rail. All it takes to run a mag frame on a cocker is to put the guts in so all it should take the run a cocker frame on a mag is to take the guts out.

On CCM trigger frames, I believe there is a little more meat in the grip area. I looked at a 86* frame, what i want to use.

Spider! · 08-24-2011, 10:26 PM

I think the main problem is that the inside slot of the 86 frame is too narrow for the clevis. It's just a little bit of milling or grinding, but it's obviously down inside the frame a bit.

Mrob1995 · 04-30-2012, 06:04 PM

Interesting none the less

russc · 04-30-2012, 06:20 PM

Great job on that mod. I love the CF frames.

08-24-2011, 02:45 PM	#1 (permalink)
Spider! MCB Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Houston, TX	How to fit a CF automag frame on a cocker Sort of a do it yourself thing. This is where we are going, never mind the colors, they will change. I happen to like the original automag frame. There's basically only three things you have to do to mount a mag frame on a cocker body. 1) install a sear pin 2) install a trigger extension 3) grind and fit the sear to the trigger extension The reason this is on a superbolt is because you can strip the superbolt frame for the sear and sear spring. This is a CF frame, but the old metal frame is just a little harder (material and difficulty). 1) For a sear pin, you need a 1/8" diameter steel rod (0.125") right around 0.75" long. Check the fit through the sear. The length is pretty flexible, but try to go under (say 0.75 +0.00/-0.10) When you take the grips off a cf frame, there's two locator nubs at the top of the frame. These are dummies for the autococker sear pin to make the grips interchangeable. You just use a file or razor saw to cut them off. When you do, leave enough that you can tell where the nub used to be. Then drill a 1/8" hole through the frame, right where the nubs used to be. This can be done by hand. It was hot in the garage, I was impatient and did a crappy job. It still works fine. You can see how the sear spring fits in the frame as is. 2) This sear pin was a 10p nail filed down, until I find my 1/8" music wire. The screw is a stainless #4 machine screw (4-40) about 5/8" long. I drilled and tapped a hole from the back of the trigger up to the forward corner of the safety hole. Also shown is the START of the grinding of the sear. Use a red dremel stone and come back with finer tools for polishing. Use a dremel or a file to remove the top threads of the screw to make a smooth running surface for the sear. The sear is hardened and will polish very smooth if you take the time. Don't shorten the length of the sear, just make it a little thinner. The length of screw here is almost too long to fit in the frame. You have to wiggle the trigger back in, so you will know when it is too long. While I'm at it, I round off the corners of the trigger a little, to give me a hair more clearance and make it a little more comfortable. As noted in step 3, the final location of the extender screw was moved. Starting half a screw width lower would probably have been just right. 3) Steps 2 and 3 are iterations, meaning you work it and test it and go back. One hint here is to install the trigger, install the sear, then add the sear spring to test the throw. The total throw (travel) just needs to be long enough to catch your cocking lug. I missed the angle of my screw, it was too high and didn't give me any sear travel as you can see in this mock up. The sear is in there. I thought it should be better than my first frame right off the bat, but hey... I ended up redrilling lower on the back of the trigger, just below the existing entrance and coming up to the same point in the back of the safety hole. I back filled with some JB weld and sanded it smooth. I also took some more off the sear and rounded the tip where it rides the screw-flat. Somewhere between the height of the trigger extension and the thickness of the sear arm is enough difference to let the sear tip sit up above the top of the frame. Once I get it setup, I hate to take it out, which is why I waited for a new project to take pictures. I actually ended up with more travel than I needed, up past the hammer if I push the pump back too far. It is an after market hammer and has a short front to it. Before you drive the trigger pin back in, don't forget to put the safety (or autotrigger cam) back in if you want. __________________ My Feedback Last edited by Spider!; 09-12-2011 at 01:53 PM.

08-24-2011, 05:27 PM	#2 (permalink)
Fatalis ArchAngels Join Date: May 2009 Location: Moncks Corner, SC	Great how-to! Now do one on how to put a CCM frame on a mag! __________________

08-24-2011, 10:26 PM	#7 (permalink)
Spider! MCB Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Houston, TX	I think the main problem is that the inside slot of the 86 frame is too narrow for the clevis. It's just a little bit of milling or grinding, but it's obviously down inside the frame a bit. __________________ My Feedback

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