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-   -   Spyder Gurus, I have an e-frame problem. (http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/kingman/14912-spyder-gurus-i-have-e-frame-problem.html)

167 04-22-2007 04:26 PM

Spyder Gurus, I have an e-frame problem.
 
I recently acquired a spyder e-frame (one of the older ones) that is suffering from a weak solenoid or something of the sort. The solenoid stroke is not strong enough to trip the sear when the marker is cocked, but it is strong enough if you take the frame off the marker. The battery was strong enough to deliver the power needed I am pretty sure. So what might be the problem, and how do I fix it? Could it be that I just need a new solenoid? If so, where can I get one that is going to be compatible with an older frame (I am not sure if they have updated parts on the newer frames)? Any help would be greatly appreciated. If you need more information just let me know. Thanks.

eric 04-22-2007 05:11 PM

try a fresh battery right from the package

ive had ones that are new and were already half dead

if that doesnt work you might need a new solenoid

edit: actually if theres some way to adjust the dwell/recharge that might be the problem to

Uranus 04-22-2007 05:12 PM

Try shimming a Penny between the solenoid and the frame. Last time I checked Solenoids were hard to come by, and expensive.

Surestick 04-22-2007 07:15 PM

Are you using a 9V alkaline battery?
IIRC the rechargeable 9V batteries that come w/Spyders are actually approx .9.6V. Some of them will work fine on a regular 9V some seem to like the extra voltage to work reliably.

two_four_878 04-22-2007 09:46 PM

You should always use the 9.6V battery with spyders. They will work with a 9V but not reliably. It really sounds like the battery is your problem, but if you try a newly charged 9.6 and it doesn't work then try shimming it like Uranus said with a coin (I try smaller coins first and move up until it works the odd time I've needed to shim).

Walker 04-22-2007 10:11 PM

Hmmmm... I have the same problem. By shim, I assume you mean between the solenoid shaft and the rear of the frame to limit it's movement? If so, mine has a set screw that serves that purpose.

I'll have to get a 9.6v and see if that cures the problem.


Walker

quick.spyder 04-23-2007 10:54 PM

And do not charge your battery over night. I made that mistake and ruined mine.

Railgun 04-24-2007 02:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by quick.spyder (Post 139372)
And do not charge your battery over night. I made that mistake and ruined mine.

Nonsense, new batteries NEED to be charged overnight provided you're using a standard 1/10C charger. If yours fried then it's because there's something wrong with your charger.

Oddly enough some of what I've seen at PBN is going to save you a lot of trouble. If your solenoid is weak and you've done the new battery thing and you've got a well charged 9.6 and it's not doing the job then it's probably because the large capacitor on your board is blown. This is the cap that stores the extra power that's needed to really strongly fire off the solenoid with a big kick. Find a replacement at a local parts shop or get a couple online and carefully solder the new one in. Pay attention to the old one as you remove it and notice that it has a + and a - on it and match the new one up. These are electrolytic capacitors and they are polarity sensitive.

The penny or washer shimming has also been shown to cause problems. The core of the solenoid needs to have some momentum before it strikes the sear. Shimming it with a washer or penny or other coin stops the solenoid from getting up a good head of speed before it hammers into the sear. Another PBN nugget.

For Spyder trivia it's truly the place to go.

167 04-24-2007 03:48 PM

Thanks, I will see what I can do.

167 04-24-2007 03:58 PM

Upon further inspection of the capacitor I discovered that one of the wires is broken at the capacitor, would it be possible to solder the wire back on without damaging the capacitor, or is it best just to replace the whole unit?


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