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Old 08-13-2013, 04:50 PM   #1 (permalink)
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DIY Pump conversion, seperate bolt

so, i am about to convert an old brass eagle raptor into a pump, and i noticed that everyone was making their bolts and strikers move completely independantly.

is this actually a requirement, or can i just disable blowback and re cock the marker using a pump arm.

being a stacked tube blow back this would create a clean looking pump.


would this be blasphemy? and would it be considered a true pump, or is pushing the bolt forward using the pump arm a requirement?
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Old 08-20-2013, 02:17 AM   #2 (permalink)
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It depends on how you disable the blowback
Also the reasoning to Spumping is to get the "Augmented" accuracy from the bolt being closed before it fires the ball..
If I understand properly you want to remove the striker o-ring and just re-cock it every time it doesn't cycle..
If you do it this way, there's more chances of affecting velocity from drag to hand miss-placement
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Old 08-20-2013, 02:35 AM   #3 (permalink)
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im looking to properly disable blowback, currently i have a snipped oring in the blowback vent, and the striker oring removed to vent any air that gets through.

if it works well enough, i may get a second valve for the marker and completely seal off the blowback vent.
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Old 08-20-2013, 02:38 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Pics?
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Old 08-20-2013, 02:42 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob_wuzza View Post
Pics?
i will post some pics next time i take it apart to check sizing.

its kind of awkward as the oring in the blowback vent hole is being held in by the same bolt that holds the valve in place
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Old 08-21-2013, 10:30 AM   #6 (permalink)
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If you want it to work like a sniper you need to disable blowback and cut a slot in the top of your hammer. The slot allows the bolt to stay cocked wile you move the bolt forward. You will need to remove the o-ring on the bolt. I did this to a Spyder and it's a lot of work but turned out very nice.

You can also cut or remove the link between the bolt and hammer. This leaves you with a gun that automaticity cocks the hammer but you have to manually cycle the bolt. It's less efficient, but i imagine a lot smoother to pump. If you do this be sure you have a way to manually cock the hammer.
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Old 08-23-2013, 10:50 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I think that if you left the bolt and hammer connected you might have velocity problems. When you pull the trigger it's a lot more mass to move forward. This could also be a form of cheating. If you push the pump forward hard you will likely get an increase in velocity. It would be like thumbing the cocking rod on a Sniper, hence why beaver tails are mandatory at most fields for Autocockers and Snipers.

Shooting from a closed bolt will not increase your accuracy or range. Theses are old paintball myths. Pumps are known for accuracy because the people who shoot them tend to practice, aim, and buy the best paint they can.
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Old 08-23-2013, 11:00 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Stbb valves and cocker valves are the same concept except the Stbb has the flats milled on the stem

Grab a cocker stem of equal size and replace it

Pull the oring(s) off the striker

Should have blowback disengaged

Slot the striker and you now have what is essentially a halfblock cocker
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Old 08-26-2013, 07:20 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I did this with a spyder and just modified the valve pin with jb weld to fill in the flat spot. It worked flawlessly.
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Old 08-27-2013, 06:27 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I was planning on JB weld but I found a nice replacement valve instead.
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