Paintball

[CJOttawa]

The Redux uses a standard Phantom hammer.

With a 6.25 inch barrel, the Redux needs a strong main spring to achieve usable velocities, suggesting hammer bounce.

I've been looking for a lighter weight hammer to use in the Redux to reduce hammer bounce and tune the marker's efficiency.
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The original design for a fluted Nelson hammer is credited to Colin Thompson of Lapco.

An idea for milling a standard Phantom hammer was posted on PhOG here: Initial review of fluted hammer

The linked page in that thread is down but I'd previously saved the images:

Stock Phantom hammer, 43.7 grams

Milled Phantom hammer, 29.0 grams

Hammers, side by side comparison
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Courtesy of a friend with access to a machine shop:

Scale, tare weight 0.0 grams.

Stock Redux/CCI Phantom hammer, 43.2 grams.

Milled Redux/CCI Phantom hammer, 29.1 grams:


EDIT - posted results below and I'll call this a success, pending longer term reliability testing. Attached are also some photos of original, fluted brass Lapco hammers, courtesy of my Nor.Cal Nelson friends.

[DSA]

Thank goodness for a cold Canadian winter. CJ your doing some teal cool stuff. I would love to buy one of those hammers when your done.

Nice job!

[ironchef97]

As would I! I did the TPC drilling mod, worked like a charm and was extremely easy with just a power drill and drill bit. Haven't tested it out yet. I'm also working on a Lapco#6 power tube that I cut down to phantom length, but I need to turn down the exterior to fit into the TPC...and I don't have the tools to do that.

[CJOttawa]

Originally Posted by ironchef97

As would I! I did the TPC drilling mod, worked like a charm and was extremely easy with just a power drill and drill bit. Haven't tested it out yet. I'm also working on a Lapco#6 power tube that I cut down to phantom length, but I need to turn down the exterior to fit into the TPC...and I don't have the tools to do that.

Ironchef97:

I haven't found a powertube that have needed the exterior turned down, though perhaps I've just been lucky.

There's a mild taper about an inch down from the tip that can be difficult to see, especially if most is cut off already.

Is it possible your power tube wouldn't need turning if another half-inch were removed?

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I hadn't planned on making any more of these hammers.

Perhaps Mike Cassidy at CCI or one of the machinists on the forums would take a stab at this.


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If you wanted to do this with more common tools, you could do this with a Dremel, a cutting wheel and some grinding/cutting bits.

Cut grooves to act as guides, then grind out the sections between those guides.

It may not turn out as pretty but nothing contacts the snub except the remaining metal so it shouldn't affect performance.

[CJOttawa]

OK, initial result: SUCCESS!

• Shot INDOORS, temperature around 20°C/68°F.
• Fresh, Mosa 12-gram powerlet
• 0.682 S.S. Freak insert, standard unported Redux barrel, 6.25 inches
• Mid-grade paint
• Red main spring, blue valve spring.

285 +/-2fps.

Most interesting: instead of the characteristic "BRAP!" I've grown used to, the marker made a distinct, single note "pop."
I'm guessing the lighter hammer causes less bounce, hence no "brap."

Things to watch for from now on:

• shots per 12-gram (guessing this will go up)
• additional wear and tear on the hammer or snub due to smaller contact patches

EDIT - I find it interesting the velocity didn't suffer from the lighter hammer. I wonder if, being lighter, it gets accelerated to a higher speed than the heavier version.

[3022]

Imho the material should be removed only in middle of the hammer and on whole diameter, instead in sectors on longitudinal axis. There will be nearly no additional wear on such modified hammer, because most important contact patches are conserved.

I have modified my hammers in Sterlings and New Hammer in this style with good results. And Im doing bassicaly that same with my Sheridans.
It is possible make that only with dremel or with small grinding machine. It takes only more time.

[CJOttawa]

Originally Posted by 3022

Imho the material should be removed only in middle of the hammer and on whole diameter, instead in sectors on longitudinal axis. There will be nearly no additional wear on such modified hammer, because most important contact patches are conserved.

I have modified my hammers in Sterlings and New Hammer in this style with good results. And Im doing bassicaly that same with my Sheridans.
It is possible make that only with dremel or with small grinding machine. It takes only more time.

Hey 3022! I've enjoyed your postings regarding Sheridan valves and regulated versus un-regulated gas sources.

A factor I didn't include in my above post is the Redux hammer, being a Phantom hammer, is slightly "barrel" shaped, not a straight cylinder like a Lapco or LineSI Nelson hammer.

Because of this, the contact patch is only the central "band" so I had to keep at least three or four points intact around the mid-section to allow the hammer to make contact.

[Talfuchre]

So this is put inside a Redux? SHow pics please.

[CJOttawa]

What kind of pics would you like? It's kind of hidden inside the snub when installed.

I edited the first post with background info. The DD68 Redux uses a standard Phantom hammer.

[Gogged_Gurl]

nice cj,you've just opened the door for the really fun part :P

TF

part 18

the phantom paintball gun CCI