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RTP RTP Viper / Intimidators

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Old 12-12-2011, 05:15 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by senghing27 View Post
Pirate stocks give you nothing to shoulder so you kinda chicken wing all awkwardly with it.
They don't really work as pistols, I find they work best when you hold them the same way you'd hold a full stock. Out away from your body. Since the stock is imaginary, you don't have cheekweld mask issues!
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Old 12-12-2011, 09:28 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ironchef97 View Post
Rick didn't modify the linkage of mine at all when he did it, he just made a new cocking rod that threaded into where the old rod went. It attaches to one of rick's plates that connect to the brass thumbscrew sticking out the back of the bolt.
Thanks IC, that answers mt question. I'd like to see if he does the same thing with Lechooch's.

How was the throw in comparison to other levers? Granted the teiseuman (sp?) might have variation in construction/specs.

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They don't really work as pistols, I find they work best when you hold them the same way you'd hold a full stock. Out away from your body. Since the stock is imaginary, you don't have cheekweld mask issues!
I agree with the no cheek issues. I can't shoot a pirate stock stable enough to use one. So I tend to shoot from the hip with those.
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Old 12-12-2011, 12:05 PM   #23 (permalink)
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with any lever build, milling the inside lever housing from the stock is a delicate procedure. Cut too much, and goodbye wood. Cut too little and friction will cause you headaches.
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Old 12-13-2011, 06:53 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Pirated lever just means you need a better grip on the foregrip hand. Since you can't use a shoulder mount as leverage.
To me, the real draw back from most pirates is the trigger hand's grip angle. But Rick know hows to make it so much better, as he did with my pump intimidator and I'm sure he will with yours lechooch.
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Old 12-14-2011, 12:51 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by splattttttt View Post
with any lever build, milling the inside lever housing from the stock is a delicate procedure. Cut too much, and goodbye wood. Cut too little and friction will cause you headaches.
That's the damn truth, my noxx lever sucked cause there was too much friction...
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Old 12-20-2011, 12:23 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Just goy a HUGE update from rick.

-A huge amount of work has had to be done to the stock to make it work nice and look good
-the lever is straight and the stock is curved, I don't think we have a solution for that yet
-work on the layers has been made Barrels are almost if not comletely done aswell

He sent me a metric a**load of pics but here is one so you get the idea:
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Old 12-20-2011, 12:36 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Looks like the trigger needed to be bent a bit to fit the lever(my intimidator needed it to for the custom triggerguard).
The hump on that grip looks like it will be comfy.
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Old 12-20-2011, 04:48 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Integrate the lever the chplnstone way! http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/a...-schedule.html

They are all straight where they meet the stock.

Also who made the lever assembly if I may ask?

Last edited by ironchef97; 12-20-2011 at 04:51 AM.
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Old 12-20-2011, 08:45 AM   #29 (permalink)
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It is mine. It was one of my first attempt one making a lever. I have changed the design I am working on some new ones done in the begining of next year. Funds are tight because of the holidays/
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Old 12-20-2011, 08:52 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Teimusan View Post
It is mine. It was one of my first attempt one making a lever. I have changed the design I am working on some new ones done in the begining of next year. Funds are tight because of the holidays/
is that a reverse engineered BRettG, or did you make any changes?
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