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Old 06-10-2011, 02:59 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Oh, I gotcha. I always wondered how thick the wall on that front of the chamber was but I never drilled one out. My only concerns would be getting a good seal and if it's actually thick enough to hold the threads. The "side" wall is double thick (the tube then the valve insert) and on most of the 1/8" fittings they soldered them on as well. You do lose a couple threads because of the shape of a tube though...

I think the best (easiest?) place for a valve on a CA gun would be to just add an ASA extender with a guage. I mean on a sheridan all you're really reading is the tank pressure anyway.
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Old 06-10-2011, 05:58 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Gauge was not my goal.

An lpr is.

I had BOS make a spacer that goes inside the valve tube, that is threaded for a lpr.

If I drill through the part sealing off the front part of the tube, the lpr and spacer combo will have air, that then goes to my typhoon trigger frame
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The prototype is usually the hardest - then come the refinements then the ooohs and the aaaahs but they are always preceded by the !#@!@#! and the !#!!#@!% and the GAAAAAAHS
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Old 06-11-2011, 07:26 AM   #13 (permalink)
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You will need a way to join and seal that spacer to the valve body as it will be under significant pressure.

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Old 06-11-2011, 11:37 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I was going to use a combonation of set screws, solder, and jb weld

I have to get a hole in that seal somehow though

Essentially what I'm doing is making a new seal that has a threaded hole in it, and will sit farther up into the valve tube.

The whole valve tube can hold the pressure, right?
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The prototype is usually the hardest - then come the refinements then the ooohs and the aaaahs but they are always preceded by the !#@!@#! and the !#!!#@!% and the GAAAAAAHS
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Old 06-11-2011, 11:17 PM   #15 (permalink)
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The whole valve tube can hold the pressure, right?
I would like to know this as well. My guess is yes?
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Old 06-12-2011, 12:11 AM   #16 (permalink)
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It seems petty thick.

Guess I'll find out.

Finals are this week, then its just waiting for parts,



And finding a drill press possibly
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Quote:
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The prototype is usually the hardest - then come the refinements then the ooohs and the aaaahs but they are always preceded by the !#@!@#! and the !#!!#@!% and the GAAAAAAHS
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Old 06-12-2011, 12:34 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Use the following information:

Yield/burst psi rating calculator

Brass alloy guide I selected 52000 PSI as the yeild strength

Based on the OD of .875", the ID of .775" (.050 wall thickness), using 52,000 PSI as the yield strength and the factor of 3 times safety, the calculator suggests that 2000 psi is perfectly fine.

Obviously, this is all theoretical, and YMMV, plus I would not suggest the *YOU* do it, but I run CO2 into the valve tube of my KP and have for years.

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Old 06-12-2011, 12:36 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Thanks for the input ty

Also, I cant seem to get the cap at the end of my valve tube.
And yes I removed to set screw. I even stuck a knife in the small gap to widen it but it would only move a little
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The prototype is usually the hardest - then come the refinements then the ooohs and the aaaahs but they are always preceded by the !#@!@#! and the !#!!#@!% and the GAAAAAAHS
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Old 06-12-2011, 01:15 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Old 06-12-2011, 01:32 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Thanks, Ill try that.
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The prototype is usually the hardest - then come the refinements then the ooohs and the aaaahs but they are always preceded by the !#@!@#! and the !#!!#@!% and the GAAAAAAHS
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