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Old 09-06-2007, 11:15 AM   #11 (permalink)
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No problem.... I would stay away from the coat hanger method as when you try to put the valve back in, alignment is going to be a royal pain in the ***.

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Old 09-14-2007, 02:18 PM   #12 (permalink)
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The method I used for much of the 90s was to remove the internals, and rear plugs.
Then remove the valve screws. Point the back of the gun towards a pillow, and screw on a co2 tank.

POW! Valve shoots out, and gently lands on pillow. Standard Disclaimer applies obviously.

Reinstalling is harder without the tool. What I would do is push the valve in using the hammer. Not that hard, though the main trick is keeping the VM prefectly vertical so the spring/cupseal doesnt fall off.

in the end though, using the 3/8" bolt mentioned above is far safer..

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Old 09-14-2007, 02:25 PM   #13 (permalink)
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It's hard enough keeping the cupseal and spring in allignment even using the tool.... without it.. forget it.

Pillow... you're nuts!

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Old 09-14-2007, 05:14 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Well, I had a valve-tool, but I ALWAYS managed to forget it everytime I played with the VM68.

The "co2" method worked as long as I was extra, extra careful. Mind you, this exludes the time I FORGOT the tank was attached when I went to remove the valve inside the Canobie proshop.... ahem...

As for putting it back in, the trick I used was to plop a bit of lithium grease on the cupseal, so help it "stick" to the valve, and spring a bit easier. otherwise it can drive you mad trying to balance everything while reinserting.

Chris Mader has a cool custom Palmer VM where the front was modified so you could acess the valve through the front. Pretty smart.

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