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| | #12 (permalink) |
| MCB Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Southern Maine | The method I used for much of the 90s was to remove the internals, and rear plugs. Then remove the valve screws. Point the back of the gun towards a pillow, and screw on a co2 tank. POW! Valve shoots out, and gently lands on pillow. Standard Disclaimer applies obviously. Reinstalling is harder without the tool. What I would do is push the valve in using the hammer. Not that hard, though the main trick is keeping the VM prefectly vertical so the spring/cupseal doesnt fall off. in the end though, using the 3/8" bolt mentioned above is far safer.. nick
__________________ www.montneel.com My Myspace nonsense "the evidence strongly suggests that neither Billy nor Adam (Smart Parts) could have invented the electronic paintgun" -Garr M. King, U.S. Judge |
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| | #14 (permalink) |
| MCB Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Southern Maine | Well, I had a valve-tool, but I ALWAYS managed to forget it everytime I played with the VM68. The "co2" method worked as long as I was extra, extra careful. Mind you, this exludes the time I FORGOT the tank was attached when I went to remove the valve inside the Canobie proshop.... ahem... As for putting it back in, the trick I used was to plop a bit of lithium grease on the cupseal, so help it "stick" to the valve, and spring a bit easier. otherwise it can drive you mad trying to balance everything while reinserting. Chris Mader has a cool custom Palmer VM where the front was modified so you could acess the valve through the front. Pretty smart. nick
__________________ www.montneel.com My Myspace nonsense "the evidence strongly suggests that neither Billy nor Adam (Smart Parts) could have invented the electronic paintgun" -Garr M. King, U.S. Judge |
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