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Old 04-28-2013, 12:11 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Springing for Efficiency with a Dynavalve.

I own a PGP2 (I know, I know) and have been slowly turning it into the pump pistol that I want (added a speed feed and it came with rubber grips as well as a trigger shoe).

I recently ordered a dynavalve from Palmers and I had to turn in the velocity screw to get it to shoot what looked to be the same FPS (didn't have a chrono handy) as the stock valve.

Questions I have:

1. Can I use cocker valve springs in this? Blue maddmann spring would mean decent efficiency and a semi smooth pump stroke?

2. If no, is there a place I can order a better set of springs than the stock spring that will yield better efficiency?



I'm trying not to waste the twenty 12g's that I have hahaha good luck with that huh?
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Old 04-29-2013, 04:45 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Also, it has to "cock" twice for me to get it cocked. What's up with that?! Seems like the hammer maybe dragging on the sear???
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Old 04-29-2013, 05:40 PM   #3 (permalink)
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You should hear 2 clicks when you cock it. I don't remember if the first one is the sear passing over the alignment pin or the recess in the hammer but that's normal. The second click is the normal firing position. If you're not getting there it might explain the velocity issue.

With cart valves, valve alignment can be an issue as well. If it's not 100% lined up with the through hole in the body you'll lose a lot of velocity.
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Old 04-29-2013, 05:52 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
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You should hear 2 clicks when you cock it. I don't remember if the first one is the sear passing over the alignment pin or the recess in the hammer but that's normal. The second click is the normal firing position. If you're not getting there it might explain the velocity issue.

With cart valves, valve alignment can be an issue as well. If it's not 100% lined up with the through hole in the body you'll lose a lot of velocity.
Ok, ya that's what is going on. Didn't know if that was normal or not.

Could I use thread tape to keep the threads lined up?
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Old 04-29-2013, 08:39 PM   #5 (permalink)
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on mine i bored out the inside of the hammer to work with spyder springs. little smaller diameter than cocker springs.
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Old 04-29-2013, 09:43 PM   #6 (permalink)
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on mine i bored out the inside of the hammer to work with spyder springs. little smaller diameter than cocker springs.
How many bits did you go through to do that?
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Old 04-29-2013, 11:08 PM   #7 (permalink)
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worked with one
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Old 04-30-2013, 01:49 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zepulkinator View Post
How many bits did you go through to do that?
I've read at least one case of someone getting the hammer cherry red with a torch, allowing it to air cool, which then made it workable to lighten a bit on a lathe. Not sure if he drilled it for different springs but the machine work on the outside seemed clean enough. He said he heated it up again and then quenched it in oil to harden it back up. I'm sure it's probably not as hard of a finish as it started with, but probably still more than hard enough to outlast the player shooting it.
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Old 04-30-2013, 02:13 AM   #9 (permalink)
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may have switched over to a dremel grinding bit to clean it up, can't remember it has been a while
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Old 04-30-2013, 03:08 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Very interesting info guys. Thanks!
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