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Sidearms Bring on the Pistols! From Splatmasters to modern day semi-auto pistols.

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Old 05-24-2008, 07:48 PM   #1 (permalink)
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t68 pistol velocity problems

brand new gun, just installed the strongest (gold) springs (both) and the gun still only shoots 238 fps tops. that's with the velocity knob cranked all the way in too. what's wrong? not c02 problem, i have bottomline adaptor with 3.5 oz. has air supply, gold strongest spring, knob all the way in. what else to raise chrono speed??? please help me. thanks. just ordered the silencer as well but kind of regretting now since it still shoots low with the new springs in.
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Old 05-24-2008, 08:17 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Mine only came with one spring and the fastest it wouldnt shoot above 250FPS. Agentsmith gave me a Spyder spring, I cut of about 4coils and then put it behind the mainspring to increase the tension. Now i chrono my T68 at Exactly 289FPS.

You best bet would prob be to clip a few coils off that second spring to place behind the main spring.
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Old 05-24-2008, 08:27 PM   #3 (permalink)
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two springs? lol they should've just made a proper spring in the first place. thanks for the help, i'll try that
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Old 05-24-2008, 09:55 PM   #4 (permalink)
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tried to fit a spyder spring behind. tension is too hard and the bolt doesn't go back far enough to cock now. guess more coils need to come off
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Old 05-24-2008, 10:14 PM   #5 (permalink)
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try 4 coils and back off the adjuster.
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Old 05-24-2008, 10:46 PM   #6 (permalink)
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You can cut a plastic pen tube into a desired length as a spacer. You also might to check for a restricter or very small exhaust port.
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Old 05-25-2008, 07:32 AM   #7 (permalink)
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The valve spring may be too strong, too. If the spring that goes inbetween the cupseal nose and the back of the pierce pin block is too tight it won't let the cupseal open even with a proper mainspring. The New T68 pierce pins(though they're light years ahead of the old ones), don't have an inset guide for the spring, they're just flat on the back, so essentially they add a coil to the valve spring.

I would shorten that valve spring a little at a time(I just squash the valve spring without cutting any coils by laying it against a ruler, overcompressing it with my fingers and checking it again a mm at a time). You want it tight enough so that the cupseal doesn't rattle when you shake the gun, but loose enough that it will gas out the barrel if you don't pull the bolt and lock it back.
So if you can gas it up, WITH THE BOLT FORWARD and it doesn't just blow out all the gas, then that valve spring is almost certainly too tight.
Remember you're trying to get a balance between these two springs.

Hope that helps too!
Rob
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Old 05-25-2008, 02:31 PM   #8 (permalink)
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sounds great agent. the stock valve spring is harder then even the strongest (gold) one in the spring kit. i just put both gold ones in (hardest). and put a short (few coils) of a spyder spring behind the main one. don't have a chrono handy till saturday when i play to check the configuration. thanks for all the help guys. hope this damn thing shoots faster so i can enjoy it. so fun to shoot with.

oh i did try vinyl washers for spacers behind the spring stem at back but the gun would burp like it's out of co2
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Old 05-25-2008, 05:24 PM   #9 (permalink)
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That usually means you're not forcing the cupseal open far enough for blowback gases to get through the little port under the plate on the side, so it isn't making recock. Sounds more like the valve spring that time, unless the seal under that little plate on the side is leaking? This does the blowback. That spring between the cupseal and the back of the pierce pin ONLY needs to be strong enough to barely hold the cupseal against the face of the valve, if you can air the gun up without having the bolt locked open, then it's definitely too strong.

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