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Old 05-06-2013, 04:55 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Need some help on how to zero my Tiberius scope

I need some help zeroing a scope. I have the Tiberius 4x32 scope the manual I found seems to be generic at best. It barely resembles the actual scope they sell in it's crude illustration. I have it on my hammer 7 along with the Tiberius adjustable riser. A while back I took it to range it at my local pro shop and now matter how I adjusted it, the shots fell down and to the right of the scope. I picked up a Lapco barrel and am awaiting it's arrival, hoping that will help straighten out the shots otherwise.

My main two questions, for those who have it, are how do you utilize the knob on the front and the knob on the back (eye piece) of the scope. The front is supposed to be a range finder and I use it to sharpen/focus the cross-hair. So I assume when I've got it sharp and focused if I look at the number that's how far my target is? Now what about the front part? Is that supposed to be adjustable eye relief? Because it doesn't seem to make too big of a difference and there is no way to lock it in place once set. So I cant stop it from possibly getting jarred out of place.
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Old 05-08-2013, 05:30 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by SlamSlayer View Post
I need some help zeroing a scope. I have the Tiberius 4x32 scope the manual I found seems to be generic at best. It barely resembles the actual scope they sell in it's crude illustration. I have it on my hammer 7 along with the Tiberius adjustable riser. A while back I took it to range it at my local pro shop and now matter how I adjusted it, the shots fell down and to the right of the scope. I picked up a Lapco barrel and am awaiting it's arrival, hoping that will help straighten out the shots otherwise.

My main two questions, for those who have it, are how do you utilize the knob on the front and the knob on the back (eye piece) of the scope. The front is supposed to be a range finder and I use it to sharpen/focus the cross-hair. So I assume when I've got it sharp and focused if I look at the number that's how far my target is? Now what about the front part? Is that supposed to be adjustable eye relief? Because it doesn't seem to make too big of a difference and there is no way to lock it in place once set. So I cant stop it from possibly getting jarred out of place.
Here are the answers to your two scope questions. Let's start with the dial on the eyepiece (ocular) lens. That dial around the eyepiece is a way to adjust the sharpness of your reticle. Point the scope up at at nice blue sky or other plain background and look through the eyepiece from about 3" away. Pay attention to the sharpness of your crosshair when your eye first catches sight of it. If the reticle looks blurred at first glance then it is out of focus. Turn the reticle a bit until your eye sees it sharply the instant you pick it up. If your reticle is out of focus while playing and you look at it long enough your eye will adjust and give your brain a sharp image. Trouble is if you look through an unfocused scope long enough your eye will get tired doing that adjustment and you can end up with a nasty headache.

The dial on the bell, or objective lens is not a range finder. It is for adjusting parallax. Parallax happens when the image of the object you are looking at doesn't end up precisely where it should in the reticle. My suggestion is to adjust that dial to a 50 yard or closer setting and forget about it.

The rangefinder aspect of your scope has nothing to do with either of those dial. Actually it is the mildots that line your crosshair. Mildot usage can be complicated or simple. I chose simple for paintball. Take a paintball mask out to certain distances (20, 30, 40 etc.) and then look your scope at the mask downfield. Up close, the mask (when seen through the scope) will extend over a number of mildots. As you get farther away it will touch fewer and fewer mildots. Just write down the number of mildots for each distance and you now have a manual rangefinder.
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Old 05-09-2013, 11:57 AM   #3 (permalink)
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As someone with a background in competitive shooting, low right shots usually mean you are "jerking" the trigger. It may not be the scope at all.
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Old 05-09-2013, 12:18 PM   #4 (permalink)
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As someone with a background in competitive shooting, low right shots usually mean you are "jerking" the trigger. It may not be the scope at all.
I agree with Flatliner. What is the distance you are trying to zero the rifle? I would shoot at no more than 25 yards until you are shooting nice, tight groups. At that point, start moving your target further away. Just know that without some type of adjustable picatinny rail under your scope, you will probably start running out of elevation adjustment on your scope around 40-50 yards.
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Old 05-09-2013, 07:45 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Wen you do move out further, you can shim the bottom of the back scope ring. I did that prior to purchasing an adjustable riser while I was playing around and it worked pretty well. I cut my shims out of the sidewall of a pop can and added more until I got the adjustment I was looking for. It gave me a 50 yard zero without cranking the scope all the way out.
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Old 05-11-2013, 02:40 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Sniper Scope - Sighting a Tiberius T9 w/ First Strike Rounds - YouTube
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