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Old 02-04-2013, 07:21 PM   #1 (permalink)
DonkeyPunchTheNightAway
 
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Carbine Valve questions...

First.. I assume there are O-rings inside of the valve. So how do I get inside of it to do these?

I see the one side has a brass part holding it all together and I am able to push it in. Is there a trick to it? Push it in and rotate? If so it hasnt worked for me.

So this is a random marker project that I felt like doing. Seen it on ebay for 12 bucks, so what the hell. LOL
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Old 02-04-2013, 10:50 PM   #2 (permalink)
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There should be a snap ring around the brass part I think.
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Old 02-04-2013, 11:09 PM   #3 (permalink)
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If, when you figure it out, you would be so kind as to post pictures, I'd be grateful. If I can ever manage to get the valve out of mine it would be helpful.
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Old 02-05-2013, 09:17 AM   #4 (permalink)
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You have to press down on the brass end and then get the snap ring out of the grove to remove the brass cap to replace the seals inside.

How to get the valve out of a 68 Carbine, here is a video on that:

Tippmann 68-Carbine - Valve Removal - YouTube
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Old 02-05-2013, 01:25 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I seen the snap ring, but it is being a pain in my rear.
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Old 02-06-2013, 12:21 AM   #6 (permalink)
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That video shows an early carbine with a pro-lite style valve. For most .68 carbines and pro/carbines, unscrew the gas line fitting from the body, and the valve will slide out the back after you remove the rear bolt and bolt handle, linkage arm, drive spring and pin, rear bumper, and end cap.
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Old 02-07-2013, 09:37 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I made a 2 foot long 2x4" wood block and drilled a slightly larger hole than the valve in the block not all the way threw the block... put a rag around the valve to make it fit snug in the block and not damage it... then i can get two hands on an o ring pick(s) to get the snap ring out...lol... A lot of work for a snap ring but it seems to help..
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Old 02-07-2013, 06:17 PM   #8 (permalink)
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My problem is less about instructions and more about the terrible sticky gunk all over the place. It looked like its previous owner broke two or three oil-based paintballs in the breach, fired it all through the barrel, and let it sit for ten years. I spent an hour or two with q-tips to get enough of it off the powertube for the front bolt to cycle. It works fine now and I've removed most of what I can, but that valve might never budge

(Sorry for highjacking)
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Old 02-07-2013, 07:48 PM   #9 (permalink)
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It is a snap ring, but made more like a key ring(similar to agd lvl 5 valves on the powertube) you have to get a pic under the start, pry that out of the groove and then pull that end and the rest of the ring will follow. I usually stick myself in the finger a few times with the pick before I get them out. I guess they require a little blood sacrifice.

And that youtube link above, that is a old "rope" style valve. They were used in 68 carbines only, but had problems and were replaced with the CVX valve, which was used in all the pro-carbs. The cvx was a drop-in upgrade for the 68 carbine, I think it latter became stock for the late models.
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Old 02-08-2013, 08:21 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Axel View Post
My problem is less about instructions and more about the terrible sticky gunk all over the place. It looked like its previous owner broke two or three oil-based paintballs in the breach, fired it all through the barrel, and let it sit for ten years. I spent an hour or two with q-tips to get enough of it off the powertube for the front bolt to cycle. It works fine now and I've removed most of what I can, but that valve might never budge

(Sorry for highjacking)

I use high % of rubbing alcohol and set the parts in it for awhile. I have never had an issue of it not working for me.
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