Cycling idea. Good or bad?

Boroffski · 01-12-2011, 01:08 AM

If i drill a 1/32" hole between the ports(45deg) and half way through the wall, then drill another from the boltface to the other hole, will this help with cycling/recock? The groove over the ports was there when I got it. I cleaned the ports up and plugged the 3 unused. I'm planning on buying another valve so i'm playing a little.
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Sgt Hollywood · 01-13-2011, 03:43 AM

Holy lightened hammer Batman!

If I am understanding your question correctly. I would imagine, you will still be restricted to the initial inlet hole size since that will be the tightest port to create a bottleneck.

Boroffski · 01-13-2011, 08:04 AM

Let me back up a bit. To start everything I drilled a 3/4" x.c. to get a vert asa for a reg. Then I spec.'d the valveport at the cupseal to be .250. Next I drilled the port from the asa to the valve .250 to match. Followed by drilling the reciever transfer port and 9 oclock valveport w/ a #7(.201), capped the receiver w/ a 1/4-20 setscrew. I then capped the 3 unused valveports, lightened the hammer and drilled the bolt out to 5/16(.3125) and cupped it. So the bottleneck is exiting the valve. After this it goes cyclic if I hold the trigger.

But I know better.

So I was really stoked to try this valve mod and I had some "gubment" time at work last night, so I did it. I ended up drilling 2 ports w/ a #2 centerdrill and a 1/16" drill.

NO CO2..... CRAP.

Well heres pics anyhow... more in the picture thread as well.
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Boroffski · 01-24-2011, 07:17 AM

Valve worked great! I'm hoping it will work with hpa now as well.

DeeEight · 01-31-2011, 10:14 PM

I drilled my hammer extensively like that too, but its still a hunk of stainless there so I just switched to a Cooper-T kit.

infamoussmiley · 02-02-2011, 02:37 PM

I have some Cooper T hammer kits.

Smiley

DeeEight · 03-15-2011, 02:53 PM

Well the hammer kits only work if they include the Cooper-T Better bolts also, as they're longer and they depend on relocating the main spring from behind the hammer to behind the bolt, another plus to the cooper-t hammer though is the adjustable striker pin that becomes the new method for velocity adjustment. Instead of rotating the valve body you vary how far the valve pin pushes open when the hammer hits it.

01-12-2011, 01:08 AM	#1 (permalink)
Boroffski old punk Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: northwest ohio	Cycling idea. Good or bad? If i drill a 1/32" hole between the ports(45deg) and half way through the wall, then drill another from the boltface to the other hole, will this help with cycling/recock? The groove over the ports was there when I got it. I cleaned the ports up and plugged the 3 unused. I'm planning on buying another valve so i'm playing a little.

01-13-2011, 03:43 AM	#2 (permalink)
Sgt Hollywood ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: NYC	Holy lightened hammer Batman! If I am understanding your question correctly. I would imagine, you will still be restricted to the initial inlet hole size since that will be the tightest port to create a bottleneck. __________________ Sgt. Hollywood's feedback Mini collection Old School VM68 Mag with PPS Stab, dual bottle (rear and slant. Ported valve and Starfire Bolt (alum), tweaked springs & Lapco Cocker adapter. Pneumatic Design Storm Oddball marker but fairly accurate. Phantom 6",11 & 14"" DanW .45 Grips SC hori feed now VSC, Shoed up. PGP Blinging, Classic AutoMag (mini) "Tactical" custom, Trracer Rifle in the works, 2k+VF WGP cocker, 2 Trilly Pump "Sniper" conversions, 3 Trracers

01-13-2011, 08:04 AM	#3 (permalink)
Boroffski old punk Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: northwest ohio	got er did Let me back up a bit. To start everything I drilled a 3/4" x.c. to get a vert asa for a reg. Then I spec.'d the valveport at the cupseal to be .250. Next I drilled the port from the asa to the valve .250 to match. Followed by drilling the reciever transfer port and 9 oclock valveport w/ a #7(.201), capped the receiver w/ a 1/4-20 setscrew. I then capped the 3 unused valveports, lightened the hammer and drilled the bolt out to 5/16(.3125) and cupped it. So the bottleneck is exiting the valve. After this it goes cyclic if I hold the trigger. But I know better. So I was really stoked to try this valve mod and I had some "gubment" time at work last night, so I did it. I ended up drilling 2 ports w/ a #2 centerdrill and a 1/16" drill. NO CO2..... CRAP. Well heres pics anyhow... more in the picture thread as well.

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01-24-2011, 07:17 AM	#4 (permalink)
Boroffski old punk Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: northwest ohio	Valve worked great! I'm hoping it will work with hpa now as well.

01-31-2011, 10:14 PM	#5 (permalink)
DeeEight Active Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Canada's Capital Region	I drilled my hammer extensively like that too, but its still a hunk of stainless there so I just switched to a Cooper-T kit.

02-02-2011, 02:37 PM	#6 (permalink)
infamoussmiley . Join Date: May 2006	I have some Cooper T hammer kits. Smiley

03-15-2011, 02:53 PM	#7 (permalink)
DeeEight Active Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Canada's Capital Region	Well the hammer kits only work if they include the Cooper-T Better bolts also, as they're longer and they depend on relocating the main spring from behind the hammer to behind the bolt, another plus to the cooper-t hammer though is the adjustable striker pin that becomes the new method for velocity adjustment. Instead of rotating the valve body you vary how far the valve pin pushes open when the hammer hits it.