issues

Omegara · 11-04-2007, 12:16 PM

I tested out my VM yesterday and after a while it stopped recocking, the tanks wasn't out of air but it would only shoot once. The only things I can come up with are the combination of the Black rain with the lightened internals makes it so that there isn't enough pressure to recock the gun once the tank gets down a bit.. sound resonable? and how would I counteract this? put back in the original main spring and the white bumper back on the hammer??

russc · 11-04-2007, 01:06 PM

One possibly solution would be to go to a smaller port on the valve, while turning up the spring tension which will divert more gas to the recock cycle.

Tugboater203 · 11-04-2007, 10:17 PM

Is the bolt well lubed? I had too much drag because I didn't lube it enough and the friction was keeping it from re-cocking.
Tug

EvilEd · 11-05-2007, 01:13 AM

Have a look at this step be step see if it helps'
Recocking issues

Omegara · 11-05-2007, 08:47 AM

after a complete strip down and reassembly it is firing again. One thing I forgot to mentionwas this started after a gun jam, a shell got stuck between the bolt and body, I cleared it but after that the gun wasn't shooting, but now it is so who knows.

Anonymous Coward · 11-05-2007, 11:40 AM

EvilEd,

In the instructions it says....

2. Loosen the valve screws just a little. Like a 1/2 or 1 turn on both screws. Then test. (warning: makes sure the valve is still secure)

a. Did it recock?

NO. go to 3.

Yes. The screws you have are to long and were stopping the cupseal from moving freely. Ether get shorter screws or put some washer behind the screws you have.

My VM68 has a brass insert jacket inside the valve to prevent the screws from being screwed in to far into the valve. Do you know when this design came into play?

EvilEd · 11-05-2007, 04:38 PM

The brass part has always been there But it is brass and can be crushed in to pinch the cupseal stem. Or the brass center can be turned in so the screws can now touch the cupseal stem.

11-04-2007, 12:16 PM	#1 (permalink)
Omegara Active Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: New Jersey!	issues I tested out my VM yesterday and after a while it stopped recocking, the tanks wasn't out of air but it would only shoot once. The only things I can come up with are the combination of the Black rain with the lightened internals makes it so that there isn't enough pressure to recock the gun once the tank gets down a bit.. sound resonable? and how would I counteract this? put back in the original main spring and the white bumper back on the hammer?? __________________ Omega Ra Uber Spyder Pilot Video DH titanium striker, 32* spring kit, Dye hyper 3 reg, ccm no-rise feedneck, X-customs Hall FX kit & NV trigger, ACP bolt, trinity 15* frontblock, NDZ asa/rail, SP all american barrel, T-board Ver C, 32* mangaport valve & pin, blue laser eyes, trinity grips, dye membrane pad Originally posted by OneUp: the reason I rock a spyder is because I have a big enough **** to not need even a $300 gun to compensate, let alone a $1000 gun....

11-04-2007, 10:17 PM	#3 (permalink)
Tugboater203 www.yankeepaintball.com Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Oxford,CT	Is the bolt well lubed? I had too much drag because I didn't lube it enough and the friction was keeping it from re-cocking. Tug __________________ Connecticut's woodsball field! Bookmark www.yankeepaintball.com Closed for the winter, reopening April 7th, 2012. What others think of me Tugs Feedback Authorized Dealer for CCM,CCI, Tippmann, Planet Eclipse, Tiberius Arms, and DYE . Distributor for Valken, KEE, APP and Procaps. Connecticuts home for the Milsim Corps. Need Yankee Paintball info fast? Email or call 203-906-9621.

11-05-2007, 08:47 AM	#5 (permalink)
Omegara Active Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: New Jersey!	after a complete strip down and reassembly it is firing again. One thing I forgot to mentionwas this started after a gun jam, a shell got stuck between the bolt and body, I cleared it but after that the gun wasn't shooting, but now it is so who knows. __________________ Omega Ra Uber Spyder Pilot Video DH titanium striker, 32* spring kit, Dye hyper 3 reg, ccm no-rise feedneck, X-customs Hall FX kit & NV trigger, ACP bolt, trinity 15* frontblock, NDZ asa/rail, SP all american barrel, T-board Ver C, 32* mangaport valve & pin, blue laser eyes, trinity grips, dye membrane pad Originally posted by OneUp: the reason I rock a spyder is because I have a big enough **** to not need even a $300 gun to compensate, let alone a $1000 gun....

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11-05-2007, 01:13 AM	#4 (permalink)
EvilEd Active Member Join Date: Jul 2007	Have a look at this step be step see if it helps' Recocking issues

11-05-2007, 11:40 AM	#6 (permalink)
Anonymous Coward Active Member Join Date: Jul 2007	EvilEd, In the instructions it says.... 2. Loosen the valve screws just a little. Like a 1/2 or 1 turn on both screws. Then test. (warning: makes sure the valve is still secure) a. Did it recock? NO. go to 3. Yes. The screws you have are to long and were stopping the cupseal from moving freely. Ether get shorter screws or put some washer behind the screws you have. My VM68 has a brass insert jacket inside the valve to prevent the screws from being screwed in to far into the valve. Do you know when this design came into play?

11-05-2007, 04:38 PM	#7 (permalink)
EvilEd Active Member Join Date: Jul 2007	The brass part has always been there But it is brass and can be crushed in to pinch the cupseal stem. Or the brass center can be turned in so the screws can now touch the cupseal stem.